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Joined: Oct 2004
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Sidelock
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A gunsmith friend fixed one like you have. He first used JB Weld and then very carefully where the front bead went drilled through to the bottom rib. He tapped the hole and installed a long machine screw and turned the head to look like a front bead. Bingo - the top and bottom rib are screwed togeather- can't come loose. Just an idea - Paul

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Bubble Gum works pretty good.

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I gotta get me some!,...was it Bazooka jOe??

CJ


The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
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Quote:
A gunsmith friend fixed one like you have. He first used JB Weld and then very carefully where the front bead went drilled through to the bottom rib. He tapped the hole and installed a long machine screw and turned the head to look like a front bead. Bingo - the top and bottom rib are screwed togeather- can't come loose. Just an idea - Paul


Just curious,...but i'm wondering how he would deal with an over and under?

I hope this wasn't your gun,...and hopefuly he's not your "gunsmith"


The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
CJO #127375 12/23/08 10:09 PM
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I think it was Homelass Joe, that did the JB and the screw job!

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I've also had pretty good luck with silly putty...only draw back.





It tends to get runny when you shoot black powder because of the barrel heat.

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Most of the sxs guns I've had didn't have enough space between the barrels for a screw to fit at the muzzles. Unless it was a throw-away gun, I wouldn't do anything to it that was irreversable. Have a well recommended pro do it.

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If I'm not mistaken or misunderstanding you here, the short sections of rib at the breech often include the rib extension or dolls head. As such, they are a part of the locking or breeching mechanism and subject to firing forces. It is my understanding that this area is commonly joined with braze or silver solder. A proper repair in this area will require different material and method, and more heat which would possibly melt the lower temp solder holding the long rib. I hope we can get a more learned opinion on this before you jump in with screws and J-B Weld. I think some of the guys here are confusing the lifting of a small section of the long rib with the short section that starts at the rib extension and ends usually over the chambers. Is this where the short rib is lifting...over the chambers around the forcing cone area?


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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All kidding aside...this is not Stallones first pony ride.

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I have ran into situations where the upper and lower ribs were put on with the same temp solder . when I find this , I normally set the barrels in a water bath while soldering the upper rib . If you don’t keep the bottom rib cool you end up chasing . Top to bottom then back to top so on and so forth .
Also we have to remember acid core or acid based flux was also often used this can cause rusting under the barrel rib which is best cleaned out during a repair ..
Frankly I don’t see this as a hard fix or for that mater a real issue if done correctly .
The rib can simply be re soldered as shown in the Midway clip or by using wide welding clamps .

As to the screw issue . If the barrels were set parallel and not converged then there will be a space between the muzzles . HOWEVER you don’t see many barrels done that way anymore . Now if the area was back some 4 or 5 inches ?? You might have enough space . But even then you have not sealed the seams . Condensation will build up and the barrels will start to rust under the rib
JB weld ? Ahhhhhhh no

Do it right the first time and then you don’t have to worry about it or say : so far its held .

Last edited by captchee; 12/24/08 07:48 PM.
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