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#127162 12/22/08 01:24 PM
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I have a Wm. Cashmore that has a couple of inches of the rib at the breech that pops up after firing. Has anyone worked with the low temp solder with something like this? Any other suggestions for a cure?

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I bought a 20 ga. Browning Superposed with the rib disconnected about half was from the breach. I intended to send it to Art's for repair but I decided to try JB Weld first. That was about six months ago and the JB is holding. When it pops off, if it does, then I'll send it to Art's. In another case, the forend hanger broke of a 20 ga. Parker. I glued it back with JB Weld and stayed that way for about two years, including a dove shoot in Mexico. I recently had all the metal restored on tha gun and the hanger was properly soldered in the process but the JB Weld never failed. I'm not suggesting that gluing fine guns back together is the proper fix but it can be a servicable temporary fix.


Richard Howard
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Just my 2 cents, but I'd either: a)do it yourself if you have good skills and can confidently follow my and Dewey's tutorial on Revdocdrew's website, or b) send it off to get it repaired properly by removing the ribs and re-laying them.

If you put any type of adhesive on it, when the time comes to strip the ribs and re-lay them, the 'smith will be unhappy and likely charge a bit more for the cleanup depending on how bad a mess it made.

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Chuck,
WHAT AREA ON DREWS WEBSITE IS YOUR TUTORIAL/?

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Thanks Joe, you are a valuable contributor to this maze of confusion and information.

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Stallones, there are lots of guys who can reattach the rib piece without having to relay all of the rib and reblueing the barrels. If you want to refinish the barrels, then there are more gunsmiths who can redo the ribs.

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Russ used to say he put the barrels in his blueing tanks so the heat would not affect other areas. Sound like a good way to do a small area.
bill

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Often a short section of rib can be resoldered without completely relaying the rib and reblacking.....if the rib can be pried up a bit and the mating surfaces can be scraped clean, English solder can be used to resolder the area...Brownells sells this - made by Swif...it is a paste and is applied to the mating surfaces.... they are then tied tightly with wire....the excess solder is wiped off and the area heated until the solder flows....clean up of the newly soldered joint can be done with a wire wheel, without damage to the bluing....if a bit of touch up is necessary to the joint, OxphoBlue paste can be applied while the joint is still hot from the soldering and wire wheel cleaning.....I should warn you that if an attempt to hold the rib down with epoxy has been made, this job will be extremely difficult without removing the rib - DON'T DO IT!

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