|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
3 members (Argo44, CJF, Jtplumb),
322
guests, and
5
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,522
Posts545,767
Members14,419
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16 |
Probably the most tedious, but a method to obtain the strongest thin driver would be to forge the tip down as far as practicable, then grind, and heat treat. A simple and available material to wor k with is 4130 steel. You can simply heat cherry red and quench in oil and you're done, no tempering needed for these thin drivers.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 202
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 202 |
Thanks, all, for the answers. I also have a regular Brownell's Magna-tip set with plenty of extra bits so I guess I'll just gringd down one of those. Any suggestions on what diameter grinding wheel to use to maintain the hollow ground shape? TIA! Joe
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 223
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 223 |
I bought a full set of the Brownells Magnatip's as well as the extra thin set. Rather than grinding the bits I use a very, very fine file, this then does not affect the temper of the steel,and is significantly more controllable. I just mount the bits in a vice and file very slowly to fit the appropriate screws.
The bits are also cheap enough if you break one. I definitely wouldn't use a grinding wheel, as in inexperienced hands they destroy the temper and can burn the steel and yiou then end up having to harden the steel which is just more hastle. The bits are aleady hardened to the best degree by the manufacturer.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,156
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,156 |
Depending on how much needs to be removed, I would use a Dremel tool and go slowly before finishing with a file.
I'm a little surprised that the "thin bit" set didn't go thin enough but I haven't been buying new guns.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 202
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 202 |
"I'm a little surprised that the "thin bit" set didn't go thin enough but I haven't been buying new guns."
Thanks guys. Montana, the Grulla that they don't fit is only 5 years old, but the Lebeau was made in 1975! European guns seem to have REALLY thin screws. Joe
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,156
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,156 |
I forgot to add that I cheat too. When I had the opportunity I had Nick Makinson make me a secondary lockpin for my 1909 Grant with a more bulbous head and a slightly wider slot...
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1 |
Montana, is that the one with the side lever?
JC
"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance."ť Charles Darwin
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 58
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 58 |
The thinnest bit in the Brownell A-5 set measures .020"... (Jim, they are still available - at least as of six months or so ago.)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,156
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,156 |
Montana, is that the one with the side lever?
JC Yep. Starting to get so I can shoot it...
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 373
Member
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 373 |
Buy the wheel that Brownells has listed for sharpening/thinning the their bits. It is meant to be run at slow speeds and there is no chance of over heating the metal. Plus it is so easy, even a cave man could do it.
Lenard
|
|
|
|
|
|