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Joined: Jan 2005
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Sidelock
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Thank you, all of you, for the information........

I'm now less worried and a lot clearer on a reasonable course of action. I'll shoot it till it gets lose and then deal with it.

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Pete, you could well be right, though after rotating the posted photo showing the date and controller codes, my WAG would be it's a 'V', making it circa 1943, which also matches up w/ the controller code * over 'Z', but then again, that's one of the most popular controller codes, too.


Always looking for small bore Francotte SxS shotguns.
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Sidelock
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In the Double Gun Journal an issure or three back, a guy wrote about how he tightened up a Nitro Special with sheet brass, doing the "repair" in the early 1960s, using (abusing, actually) the gun as his duck gun, with serious duck loads, for like, two decades, and selling it off to a guy who did more of the same. I had Mike repair a worn gun (a Tobin 12, not worth a big dollar fix) with a soldered shim, it works quite well.
I think I'd measure how much of a shim it needs, and use oiled paper for a while, to get a feel for how much you want to spend. Typical typing paper runs about .004, and lasts so long you might never do a "good" repair.
Best,
Ted

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Joe Wood has superglued a steel shim in a couple of doubles for me. I don't have many rounds on them yet but if the next owner doesn't like them the superglue can be undone with an application of ungluer and the gun is back to the original "loose".

The best part is I give him shooting lessons to pay for the gun work. Last week I discovered he was closing the wrong eye. He was only hitting right to left targets!

Best,

Mike



I am glad to be here.
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"oiled paper"
"superglued steel"
"brass"

Are you guys messing with me or is this what I should really do when it gets lose? On one level it does make sense but on another I kinda feel "snipe" being hunted?

If you are not kidding tell me where the "oiled paper" goes, in the hook that slips over the hinge pin?
Or do I need to figure out how to get in on the second lug also?

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Originally Posted By: Ted Schefelbein

Typical typing paper runs about .004, and lasts so long you might never do a "good" repair.


I think I've heard it all now..shimming the hOOk on a SxS with typing paper. Excuse me but that's plum crazy.


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Lets not forget a strip of Al from a soda can. Cut to fit and line the bearing section of the hook. Al is soft enough it will typically crush to the right thickness. Hold it in place initally with a dab of grease. That's what I like about these old guns, they're simple, the problems aren't brain surgery.
Steve


Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Originally Posted By: Randall
Pete, you could well be right, though after rotating the posted photo showing the date and controller codes, my WAG would be it's a 'V', making it circa 1943, which also matches up w/ the controller code * over 'Z', but then again, that's one of the most popular controller codes, too.


1943 would have been during the occupation. Highly unlikely that anyone was producing sporting arms in Belgium.

Pete

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Originally Posted By: fishdock
"oiled paper"
"superglued steel"
"brass"

Are you guys messing with me or is this what I should really do when it gets lose? On one level it does make sense but on another I kinda feel "snipe" being hunted?

If you are not kidding tell me where the "oiled paper" goes, in the hook that slips over the hinge pin?
Or do I need to figure out how to get in on the second lug also?


My favorite is duct tape. It really does work. You just have to keep replacing it.

Pete

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Originally Posted By: PeteM
1943 would have been during the occupation. Highly unlikely that anyone was producing sporting arms in Belgium.


But of course Pete - thank you for not blasting my ineptitude.
Last night I was apparently too focused on matching the pictured stamp to the referenced chart. I still think it looks most like the cursive small case 'v' - though it could not have been assembled in '43.


Always looking for small bore Francotte SxS shotguns.
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