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Forums10
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Apr 27th, 2024
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 729 Likes: 24
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 729 Likes: 24 |
If that false muzzle is meant to start a groove diameter bullet and engrave the rifling, do you have a leveled bullet starter? They don't seat by popping a push starter with your palm. I have 2 false-muzzle rifles. Both false muzzles are smooth bored groove diameter deep enough to seat a groove-diameter bullet, either patched or lubed, with your fingers. But both my false muzzles are made to allow the bullet seater guide to slide over the false muzzle, keeping things aligned. Vall didn't show us the starter part of his false muzzle. The false muzzle on this rifle is tapered. So the entrance has almost no rifling, but by the time it mates to the muzzle it's full rifling. I have slugged the bore, and using a bullet I have that's correctly sized to this groove, I can push the bullet about halfway into the false muzzle easily. So it's easily pushed into the bore with a starter I happen to have that fits this false muzzle by chance. The starter is a Pope that I bought from a friend, just because, and thought I might be able to someday use, so it's getting used now. It seats the bullet a good 2" or more into the barrel, so no issues with any crooked starting. I have a Schoyen Ballard in .38-55 with the same false muzzle barrel setup, and like this rifle, the false muzzle is also tapered on it. I own the original Schoyen mold also, and that bullet seats just about flush by hand, with maybe less than 1/8th inch of the 315 gr. bullet above the false muzzle before starting it.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,715 Likes: 415
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,715 Likes: 415 |
If that false muzzle is meant to start a groove diameter bullet and engrave the rifling, do you have a leveled bullet starter? They don't seat by popping a push starter with your palm. I have 2 false-muzzle rifles. Both false muzzles are smooth bored groove diameter deep enough to seat a groove-diameter bullet, either patched or lubed, with your fingers. But both my false muzzles are made to allow the bullet seater guide to slide over the false muzzle, keeping things aligned. Vall didn't show us the starter part of his false muzzle. The false muzzle on this rifle is tapered. So the entrance has almost no rifling, but by the time it mates to the muzzle it's full rifling. I have slugged the bore, and using a bullet I have that's correctly sized to this groove, I can push the bullet about halfway into the false muzzle easily. So it's easily pushed into the bore with a starter I happen to have that fits this false muzzle by chance. The starter is a Pope that I bought from a friend, just because, and thought I might be able to someday use, so it's getting used now. It seats the bullet a good 2" or more into the barrel, so no issues with any crooked starting. I have a Schoyen Ballard in .38-55 with the same false muzzle barrel setup, and like this rifle, the false muzzle is also tapered on it. I own the original Schoyen mold also, and that bullet seats just about flush by hand, with maybe less than 1/8th inch of the 315 gr. bullet above the false muzzle before starting it. What hardness or alloy are your bullets? Mine is also tapered over about a 2.5 or 3" distance. But no way, I can seat a groove diameter bullet. My lands are quite narrow, being Pope styled, so not much lead needs to be displaced. My bullets are paper patched however.
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan) ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/qclHjMQ.jpg)
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 422 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 422 Likes: 1 |
One is a modern barrel, and I think is set up for paper patch. I've never messed with it, although I gave about 40 bullets, .45 cal and paper patched.
The other is a Norman Brockway picket rifle, probably made in the early 1870s, maybe even right after the Civil War. It is set up for cloth patches. Very short bullets, .43 caliber, maybe 200 grains. It's a back burner muzzle loader, with the load chamber behind the percussion cap & nipple, so the powder charge is critical.
Both barrels have 22" twists.
Last edited by waterman; 06/17/23 03:28 AM.
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1 member likes this:
BrentD, Prof |
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 729 Likes: 24
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 729 Likes: 24 |
One is a modern barrel, and I think is set up for paper patch. I've never messed with it, although I gave about 40 bullets, .45 cal and paper patched.
The other is a Norman Brockway picket rifle, probably made in the early 1870s, maybe even right after the Civil War. It is set up for cloth patches. Very short bullets, .43 caliber, maybe 200 grains. It's a back burner muzzle loader, with the load chamber behind the percussion cap & nipple, so the powder charge is critical.
Both barrels have 22" twists. The bullet I have for some other Ballard rifles I breech seat for is a tapered, or step design. Base band is .002" over the groove diameter of this rifle, and wider. The next three bands and the nose each step down .001" so it's easy to ML too. I lubed one up, and after the initial push with the starter it went down the rest of the bore without a huge effort. I use the old Ideal Doc Hudson bullet in my Schoyen-Ballard .38-55, and it feels about the same resistance ML a bullet in it. I think this should work out well and hope the accuracy is good. I'm going to take some to the range loaded as fixed ammo also, just to see how the two methods compare for accuracy.
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