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The method used for colouring silver solder is brushing on a mixture of Liver of Sulphur Jewellers Gun makers and restorers use it for putting an aged look on silver it also works on brass and copper to. It smells like rotten eggs (Hydrogen Sulphide) it can give some people headaches.


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Ken61 Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: damascus
The method used for colouring silver solder is brushing on a mixture of Liver of Sulphur Jewellers Gun makers and restorers use it for putting an aged look on silver it also works on brass and copper to. It smells like rotten eggs (Hydrogen Sulphide) it can give some people headaches.


Thanks,

It looks like there's an extended-life gel available. Any tips on using it?

Regards
Ken


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Originally Posted By: Gary R
Just curious, what type of barrels do you have that use silver solder? Most barrels on older shotguns use lead/tin solder and the blackening agent used is not the same as for silver solder.


.


I had a Ugartechea that had silver soldered barrels.

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Ken61 ,when you were prepping the barrels this is an area you should have spent a little more time on,I've seen the factory finish on the Stevens showing solder...just clean it up with sand paper in keeping with what you used on the rest of the barrels , even if you have started the process already you should be able to clean this up and continue it should blend in .

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Ken61 Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: Newf
Ken61 ,when you were prepping the barrels this is an area you should have spent a little more time on,I've seen the factory finish on the Stevens showing solder...just clean it up with sand paper in keeping with what you used on the rest of the barrels , even if you have started the process already you should be able to clean this up and continue it should blend in .


There doesn't appear to be any excess solder. There's just the visible line of silver in the joint.


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If it's just a thin line, I've seen factory barrels that had a line of black paint down the rib joint. Tiny artist's brush, and Brownells Aluma hide black paint works. Some chemical blackening removes bluing.


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Do you mean brazing? Sometimes the term silver solder and brazing are used the same, but are not the same.

Silver solder uses a temperature of around 1400 deg. F. and bronze or brass soldering (brazing) uses a temperature about half of the above.

Most shotguns with an extension rib were brazed and the top and bottom rib were soft soldered (around 450 deg. F)

I find it hard to believe Stevens would spend the money for silver solder since it is sold by the troy ounce.


David


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A lot of Stevens ribs were brazed. As far as I know. And they used black paint in the cracks of the ribs to cover it.


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Ken61 Offline OP
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Ok. Thanks.

That makes sense.

How about Testors Model Paint, (Enamel) applied with a very fine tip brush?

Regards
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 05/31/15 07:43 PM.

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I have no wish to start an argument here, but the information given above, re temperatures, is incorrect. Most silver solder alloys have a FLOW temperature between 1000F and 1200F. Brazing flux will generally turn clear and active at about 1100F and the filler metal(bronze alloy) will flow readily between 1150F and 1450F, depending upon alloy. Virtually all barrel assemblies are oven-brazed in a controlled, inert, atmosphere,or in a vacuum, in order to eliminate contaminates.

The old-timers at Purdey's used to hold an empty tin upside down and hold a burning candle beneath it, in order to deposit the lamp-black on the bottom of the tin. They then added some clear lacquer, mixed in the lamp-black with a very small artist's brush, and painted that mixture along the solder joints.

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