doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion German & Austrian Sporting Guns @ doublegunshop.com Drilling dbl 16 X 10.7MM

You get some dimensions from a rifle chamber casting and one of us can tell you how to load for it!

Gentlemen, I took some measurements with my dial calipers so they are an estimate at best.

All from the rifle barrel, at the breech .70" , this would include the case, at the muzzle .30". Depth from the face of the breech to the rifling's 2.5 inches. Possible total length of the round or just the case? Length measurement was to a very small ridge where the rifling's started. Rifling's are very shallow, 6 grooves.

The rifle barrel has a W stamped on the underside the same as the shotgun barrels, could this mean the rifle barrel is also choked to some extent?

The shot gun barrels, right barrel is slightly more open at the muzzle than the left.

I am working on pic's

Here are some new pic's


The pin in the center of the slot that raises the rear sight



The area, looks like a keyhole, where the above pin engages the rod to raise the front sight.




Sight lowered and raised, npte the position of the selector.


Showing the ejectors raised


Note the barrel thickness at the muzzle compared to the thickness at the breech in the above pic.

Another interesting fact, note the pins on either side of the top lever that indicate if a barrel is cocked, the one pin by itself on the left is for the rifle barrel and the 2 on the right indicate the shotgun barrels.

Big Redneck,
The proofmark for a choked rifle barrel was a "S" superimposed over the "W", under a crown. The 10.7 is not the cartridge the drilling is chambered for. Instead, it is the bore diameter(not groove or bullet diameter)of the barrel as measured by the proofhouse with "gauge rods"or pins.It means a 10.7mm rod would enter the barrel,but a 10.8 rod wouldn't.To determine the cartridge,it is intended for, better measurements will be required. The diameter of the head,length of case,at a minimum would be required.This is assuming your statement that it is a straight case is correct(it likely is).Your rough measurement of 2.5", for the length could fit a couple case lengths, depending on where the case stops and the leade starts and ends. It would also be nice to know the rim diameter and thickness(thickness can be indirectly measured by measuring the depth of the rim recess),as well as the groove diameter of the barrel.Since measuring inside diameters with a dial caliper can be from a couple to several thousanths "off", it is better to make a chamber cast and the measurements can be made from the outside.With these measurements, I'm sure we can find or make cases and bullets that will work.It is also likely we can ID the name of the cartridge, but that is not necessary to be able to shoot it. Just my guess is it is likely something on the order of 11x55-65R, but I could be wrong as I often am.BTW,even though you asked about a black powder load the steel jacketed bullet and GBP show it was a smokeless powder cartridge.
Mike

0.7" seems a bit wide for a base and it would seem that the cartridge length is between 60mm & 65mm so maybe some Gr�ndig variant? Seems a chamber cast is in order. The W stamp on the solid projectile tube is not a proofhouse stamp but a mechanic's stamp for compensation & liability for a mechanic like Wolf, etc. I guess the possibility exists for a M???

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse

I will do a chamber cast for sure, I am sure my measurements are an estimate at best.

I will have a machinist do the measurements of the cast,I'm an old electrician and don't trust my measurements with the equipment that I own.

Any idea's on the builder, one craftsman or a possibly a guild? The more I dig into this piece and the more I learn, the more it shows the outstanding skills of those who built this beautiful piece.

Many many thank's to all the Gentlemen who have helped me in the quest to learn all I can about this piece.

I have been afraid to clean this firearm as I didn't want to do any damage (I have heard some horror stories), any suggestions on what solvents I could use?

Difficult to say on the exact maker without some additional marks somewhere? Any around the forend hanger? The selector just may point to a mechanic but it passed thru the Suhl proof facility. Also the tube extensions might narrow the field.

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse

The way the top of the frame is filed might also point toward a pool of makers but for now I'd guess:

E. Schmidt & Habermann

F.W. Ke�ler

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse

Any text here?

Kind Regards,

Raimey
rse