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Joined: Aug 2008
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Sidelock
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I recently picked up a little Belgian guild jones underlever hammer 16, with non-rebounding hammers. It's a minor annoyance, but an annoyance nonetheless. Just out of curiosity, can non-rebounding hammers be converted to rebounding hammers? I've never heard of this being done..

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i would think you would need to replace the internals on the lock

the sear and tumbler would be different - not sure about the main spring

finding parts to fit might be the issue,

back lock or side lock - L&R makes modern copies of both, but i never looked to see if they are rebounding

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Hi Mark.
I am sure you will find that it would be an uneconomical conversion as far as the cost is concerned.


The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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Thank you. I suppose it would be uneconomical.

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you could always start shopping for a rebounding hammer gun now

save the non-rebounder for clays

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I have converted a couple, both bar action. Essentially you have to change or modify the tumbler and almost certainly replace the main spring as the 'passive' arm needs to be considerably longer.
Some conversions are quite simple, only needing a new spring and an extension on the forward side of the tumbler to pick up the 'passive' arm of the spring.
Others can be far more complicated, especially back action locks which by their slim nature, sometimes won't allow the necessary movement on the spring and/or foul the sear spring.
Back at the height of the hammergun era, the conversion was commonplace and in fact many guns assumed to be rebounding as original were beautifully converted and show no sign of it. This can often be deduced by the date of the gun compared with the date of Stanton's patent.

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Originally Posted By: Toby Barclay
I have converted a couple, both bar action. Essentially you have to change or modify the tumbler and almost certainly replace the main spring as the 'passive' arm needs to be considerably longer.
Some conversions are quite simple, only needing a new spring and an extension on the forward side of the tumbler to pick up the 'passive' arm of the spring.
Others can be far more complicated, especially back action locks which by their slim nature, sometimes won't allow the necessary movement on the spring and/or foul the sear spring.
Back at the height of the hammergun era, the conversion was commonplace and in fact many guns assumed to be rebounding as original were beautifully converted and show no sign of it. This can often be deduced by the date of the gun compared with the date of Stanton's patent.


Thanks Toby. This is a back action Belgian guild gun with beautifully polished locks and a long curved mainspring. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" probably applies here, but I appreciate knowing what's involved. Here's a few pics of the gun after I cleaned it up, just for grins. I can take a photo of the locks also if you're curious:

Before:



After:

[/URL]




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Mark,
if that's not one of your grain paintings -

actually even if it is - nice looking wood for a gun that age.

the whole gun looks great - thanks for the pics

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Originally Posted By: OH Osthaus
Mark,
if that's not one of your grain paintings -

actually even if it is - nice looking wood for a gun that age.

the whole gun looks great - thanks for the pics


Thank you. That you had to ask tells me I did a decent job. There was little grain on it to start with wink

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I like non-rebounding locks as it is easier to cock both both hammers when bringing the gun up to shoot. On most rebounding locks it is difficult to impossible to cock both hammers as the gun is raised. Also admit that black powder is more fun but do shoot mostly smokeless in damascus barrels.
Cheers,
Laurie


falling block
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