doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Cutting my stock

So, I�ve measured the distance from my nose to the back of my thumb on my 16ga. Laurona sxs and found it to be 3 1/4". The stock has a current LOP of 14 3/4". I'm 5'4" (on a good day) and have a slightly muscular build ; )

I've set up a jig and am ready to cut the stock to a 13 1/2" LOP. I will cut it 90deg. to the rib line which will leave a bit of pitch to the stock, from the comb line. Pulled the butt plate and found solid wood.

I may put the plate back on after the cut, or, a thin butt pad, and massage the pitch if I need to.

I paid $280 all in for the gun, and don't intend on selling it, so resale is not a concern. I had the chokes opened to skeet 1 and skeet 2, and it will be an upland bird gun.

Anything I missed before I power on?

Don.

If it was me I'd get a better idea of what LOP I needed before cutting a stock. If I was going ahead I'd cut it 1/4" at a time until it was the correct length. Just my 2 cents.

Dal:
Your method of determining LOP is unusual to say the least. I'd agree with with Mr. Harrell. Better learn the proper method of measure, then proceed slowly.

Best, Kensal

When you cut the stock (and I would second Mike's advice), your cheek will be further forward on the stock and therefore higher up. This will raise the point of aim (or point of impact really).

In short it will change a number of effective dimensions on the stock. It may shoot better for you. Or, you may need to file down the comb slightly. My experience has been that comb height and cast are the key dimensions that make the gun shoot where I look, so that's what i would pay most attention to..

Hello Don,

Here are quotes from Michael Yardley's book "Gunfitting: The Quest For Perfection"
for your reference:

"Correct stock length can only be precisely ascertained by shooting targets".

"The nose and finger method -which, again, has its uses if its limitations are recognized- goes wrong most notably when incorrect head placement on the comb gives a false impression of the stock length requirement".

"Another point concerning fitting for length is thickness of clothing".

It must be said that Yardley does have a try gun on the cover of his book,
which is not your case, but surely more advice will come along to help you
define the length you need.

JC

Before cutting, give this a try. Extend your off arm as far as you can and try to mount the gun. I say try because it will be difficult. Continue the process by moving your hand back 1/4" and mount. At some point the gun will be perfect in terms of length, not fit, but you may find that you can easily adapt to the stock without cutting.

Cutting the stock @ 90 degrees to rib line will leave you with 0 pitch.

I agree with those that reccomend cutting in smaller increments to arrive at the proper length. If you make your cut parallel to the end of the butt will maintain your present pitch. Only you know whether that is a good or bad thing. If it's not good you can adjust with your incremental cuts.

When you make the cuts, make sure the butt of the stock is perfectly perpendicular to the surface your stock is resting on, otherwise the cut will be made at an angle to the butt instead of square with it. If I have told you something you already know I apologize for being redundant.

Hack

Ok then : ) I'm sure the stock is to long as it gets hung up on the way up. Also, not so scientific, EVERYONE at he range say's 'hey, your stock is way to long for you', and I can only hit half the targets on average, not my usual 22/25 ; ) with my browning gold and 13 1/2" LOP.

I will take the advice and only cut in small increments untill it shoulders freely, and then go from there.

Don.

I place a line of masking tape around the stock in the cut area, and then draw the cut line on the masking tape. I cut through the tape (reduces splintering) and then after the cut remove the tape.
Mike

I cover the entire stock with wide, 3M Blue Painter's Tape and using spray adhesive, mount the stock to a heavy piece of cardboard. I use cardboard shims and a trysquare to plumb the butt against the bandsaw table, gluing them in as required to plumb the butt.

Then I cut through cardboard and all, completely preventing any splintering or random movement caused by slop in the jig.

But first I insure the cuts are exactly what are required by working the shooter through several hundred rounds with a gun having an adjustable stock. POI's are POI's. Borelines are borelines. Cast is cast....etc...the gun doesn't have to be a double.