doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com AyA Sidelocks

I am in need of instructions for removal, inspection and reinstallation of the sidelocks for my #2 AyA roundbody. I have searched the internet several times and come up with nothing. Is there anything out there?

If you are sure you want to take them off, you need to carefully (with the exact size screwdriver) turn the one screw to start to loosen the sidelocks. about three turns, tap on the left sidelock with a non marring hammer. that will start the right one to come off. take the screw the rest of the way out and complete taking the right one off. Remember they are chamfered at the front end. Then take a dowel and place in the hole to gently take the left one off. To replace them, you may have to tickle the trigger blades a little, sometimes you have to send them in to have the blades adjusted slightly. That's why I caution just make sure you really need to take them off.

Thanks Gil. I am probably a little too much Obsessive Compulsive on keeping my guns cleaned and maintained (a labor of love). Maybe I should just send it in to Jack Rowe and have him do a maintenance cleaning and inspection.

Actually, amateur gunsmiths tend to do more damage taking off sidelocks than they do good. Not only do you run the risk of fouling a screw, but you might chip the wood next to the lock plate. It's not something that needs to be done very often unless the gun is used in a wet climate.

Hugh Lomas does very good work on Aya's as well - Wisc. Don't know where your from.

I have an AyA like yours. I have to remove the locks as the pins loosen fairly often, causing the gun to double.

Gil is correct on the trigger blades, but if you remove the locks, be sure they are cocked. To re-install, one side at a time of course, place the front of the lock in its position on the frame. Depress the cocking nub ( wrong terminology, but you know what I mean)located in the front of the receiver just below the water table. The front of the lock should fall in. Now pull down, not back on the trigger corresponding to the lock. This will allow the sears to sit atop the blades. Repeat for the other side. Re-insert cross bolt. Done.

The removal method described will work with loose inletting, but risks splintering. A better way is to cock the locks, remove the lock screw entirely, then gently but smartly tap tap on the action knuckle with a CLEAN light soft faced mallet or piece of soft wood while holding the action and stock of the disassembled gun loosely in the hand. Be sure to cover both locks so as to prevent anything from falling. To reinstall the cocked locks, depress the appropriate cocking lever on the front of the knuckle as you carefully place the lock in its recess by tucking the tab of the lock plate on the front into its recess on the action bar and gently lowering the rear in to place. You should not have any trigger interference. If you do, you may have an unsafe condition that should be checked. Do not move the safety from where it was when you started until you're finished. Also it's a good idea to tap the locks home uniformly (carefully) in the inletting if it is snug, which it should be. Don't rely on the screw to do it all as it is applying pressure in one spot only.
This business about never removing the locks for periodic cleaning and lubrication is silly. That is why they are detachable, and one of the advantages of the sidelock system. That does not mean removing them frequently just for a look, but annually for maintenance or whenever the gun has gotten wet. If you could see the crap and rust and stains and congealed oil residue inside the guns of those who steadfastly refuse to do this you would see what I mean. Often these guns are the same ones that have "unreliable" single triggers, for the same reason.
By the way, a dab of paste wax rubbed around the edges of the lockplates before replacement will assure that congealed oil, stock finish or not, does not cause them to stick tight and endanger the wood.

Hi PJ,
I would remove the pins(or lock screws) clean and dry the threaded holes in the plates and put a drop of removable locktite
on each. They should not loosen after this.
JL

PineKnot has given a very good post on this subject, worthy of keeping in rememberance. I will however, disagree with him slightly on one point, ie triggers. Many guns have a light spring which keeps the trigger in contact with the sear. If this be the case when the locks are removed the trigger blade will be pushed up into a position where they will interfere with the sear being seated & the triggers will need to be pushed "Forward" as the lock is positioned. This will not indicate any problem with the gun.

2-piper, No disagreement there, you are correct in bringing that up and thanks for the clarification. It can be as important as clearing the cocking levers. The moral here is never to force anything - if it doesn't want to go, stop and think instead of pushing. My mention of interference was in response to gil russell's comment on possibly having to have the trigger blades adjusted. If there is resting trigger blade pressure on the sears other than the light spring you mention as the locks go in, there might indeed be an unsafe condition that should be rectified. Another good reason to remove the locks occasionally for inspection and maintenance, as wood shrinkage or compression over time can create this in some guns.
There is nothing complicated about this process that would put it beyond the ability of any gun owner who is willing to learn how to do it properly and excercise reasonable care.

Totally agree with you there PineKnot. We're on the same page.