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#11584 11/24/06 06:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
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Crowley Offline OP
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Sidelock

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I used my Arietta 601 hunting and got caught in heavy rain. I toweled it dry, sprayed oil and when I got home I cleaned it again and oiled it again. A week goes by and I thought about the sidelocks, could the rain have gotten to them ?

I cocked the action and removed the right sidelock easily enough using a thin bladed screw driver. No rust. However when I tried to reinstall the lock I discovered you had to hold the mainspring cocking lever down so that it fits under the mainspring as the lock starts to drop into place. Now we get to the problem. The sear will not drop into place over the trigger because there is a spring loaded part that moves forward and blocks the sear from entering. This part moves easily under pressure but I have not been able to figure out how to keep it back. The safety has no effect on it.

Please advise.

danc

Crowley #11630 11/24/06 11:20 PM
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I have an AYA and you have to pull the trigger down, not back. This allows the mechansim to seat on the trigger plate.

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As PJ said, it's normal to have to hold the triggers forward to get the sears to go on top of them.


> Jim Legg <

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Sidelocks are very entertaining!

JC(AL) :-)


"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
JayCee #11743 11/25/06 04:59 PM
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Crowley, on my Union Armera I have to take a thin strand of copper wire (bell wire with the insulation stripped off) and thread it through the sideplate screw hole. The end of the wire is placed between the sear and the bent, raising the sear just enough to slide it over the trigger blades. Once the hurdle has been cleared, you simply pull the wire out of the hole and finish seating the lock. No real force is required, and the soft copper wire is not hard enough to scratch anything. Perhaps a version of this technique would help you with your Arrieta?

Anton

JayCee #11744 11/25/06 04:59 PM
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Both JC and I would know after all the corrective sear stoning. Lucky we both didn't drop the rear of the sear arm so low that no amount of triggerwiggling would get em past the trigger blades.

jack

rabbit #11753 11/25/06 06:12 PM
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Here's how to avoid the problem in future. I like to think that this is my original idea, as I have never read or heard of anyone else doing it. This works on all actions, break open, bolt, lever, pump, etc. Do this whenever you bring a gun into a warm building from the cold, where it's going to sweat, or after using it in the rain or snow. Open the action just enough so that air will blow down the barrel. Lay the gun on its side on a large flat surface. Spread a towel in front of the muzzle. Take a hair drier, set on "HOT" and "HIGH", turn it on, and lie it on the towel with the muzzle of the hair drier placed about four or five inches from the muzzle of the gun, and blowing hot air down the barrel. The towel is important as it keeps the drier from skating around due to vibration. Leave it like this for 15 or 20 minutes while you stow your gear. At the end of this time, all of the metal parts of the gun will be hot enough to be uncomfortable to handle with bare hands. This ensures that there is absolutely no possibility of any water remaining under the ribs, inside the locks or bolt, etc. Turn off the hair drier and leave the gun to cool while you feed the dog, shower, and change. Swab the bores, wipe down with an oily rag, and presto, you're done. I've been doing this for probably 35 years, never let me down, never caused me a problem. The only potential problem might be with a plastic front sight like a Raybar or a Hi-Viz, softening from the heat. That's why I leave that 4 to 5 inch gap!

Last edited by Ron Vella; 11/25/06 06:14 PM.
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As Jack says, no undue tampering. Just pushing the triggers forward enabled seating the locks.

JC(AL)

P.S.: Mine was a Víctor Sarasqueta btw.


"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
JayCee #11908 11/26/06 08:13 PM
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i have 20 AYA,I had trouble too.It finally went after I cocked the lock and pushed the trigger forward.Jack

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Crowley Offline OP
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Problem solved and the credit goes to Anton.

This 601 has a single trigger. It won't move forward. The solution is to replace the right lock first and use a drift pin to push that spring loaded part back. [I did try a wire.]The lock will then go partly into place. Then move the cocking lever up and the lock moves completely into the stock. The left lock is not impeded by that unnamed spring loaded part and drops into place when its cocking lever is moved up.

Thank you all for your help.

danc

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