Have any of you tried browning using Tony Treadwell’s method with a initial soak in copper sulfate? If so, what was your experience like, and have any of you developed any useful modifications? I like the idea of it, and tried it today for the first time, with mixed results. Tony’s instructions are a little vague in spots. Thank you.
Weird that no one has commented on this.
If someone does decide to try it, my opinion is that it is of worth to do so. The technique is also in an old book from the 1930's that I have on barrel browning and bluing (I forget the author).
What is not specific in either book is the ratio of copper sulfate to water. In Treadwell's book it calls for "two mugs" of copper sulfate, but no specific mention of the volume of water; citing enough to cover the barrels.
Additionally, the duration of the soak is vague. Treadwell calls for 30 minutes, and I don't recall the other book mentioning duration.
I can tell you that the process immediately starts to expose the pattern, which it pretty neat to see. In my case, the ribs especially responded with excellent contrast. The barrels will be coated with a dark salmon colored sludge, which will hose off. It is unclear whether they should be rubbed or not while rinsing, of if they should just be left to dry without physically contacting them. During my first attempt, I gently rubbed with paper towel, and this removed more of the color than I would have hoped. Next time I'll rinse and dry and see what happens.
Because of the color having been diminished due to rubbing, I did another quick dip. This was not a good thing to have done. When I carded the barrels later, there was a noticeable texture. This required that I polish the barrels again and start over. Thankfully, the texture was not significant enough to require the use of a file. I don't know if it was the solution ratios or the duration of the soak that caused this.
I'll be trying again. I like that is has historical applications, and if it makes composite barrel work a little easier, great.
I myself do not like any copper in my browning solutions. I find the color to not be correct to my eye. My experience browning is that it takes many passes with even carding between every coat. It is easy to get distracted and over card an area. I use a ferric chloride wash but in a very dilute solution and only just towards the end of the process. For me to get a good brown usually takes 15 plus cycles. Best of luck with the copper sulfate and show some results when you get it down.
Thanks Steve. This is a pre-etch step, as opposed to an additive to the rusting solution.
Copper Sulphate used for browning? This Treadwell's method of browning has been prodding some semi forgotten memories, after searching through a lot of years note books I came across this under some of my notes on browning. To improve the contrast between the Iron and Steel of Damascus barrels you finely Copper plate the Iron by rubbing the clean and bright barrel metal with a cotton cloth that is dampened with a small amount of saturated Copper Sulphate solution, then dry next you swab the barrels with Ammonium Sulphate this will turn the Copper deposit a deep black then brown as normal.
This is in one of my note book's from the 1960s though I have never used this method to improve the contrast. Maybe Treadwell was going through some old browning mixtures using copper.
Thank you. This helps a great deal. Treadwell’s account starts on page 59 of his book. Now I need to look for ammonium sulfate.
Found some ammonium sulfate in a granular form as a lawn fertilizer. I’d assume it needs to be in liquid form in order to swab it on. How would one go about liquifying it?
just dissolve in distilled water
Thank you. Any thoughts on concentration?