I have a right ejector that the small pin has broke off flush with the back of the ejector. How were these originally installed? I am assuming another pin could be installed for a repair. How should this be done?
Also did the firing pins in this gun vary in size by comparison to the 20 or 12 ga? I also have a broken firing pin on the same side as the broken ejector pin.
I picked this gun up on the broker very reasonable. I do not think the seller could open the gun (the firing pin was stuck too far out to let the gun open beyond just a little bit)and as such he had very little info and marginal pics. I saw just enough and had to give little enough to take a chance and picked up a real nice gun with excellent barrels (in/out and sound), good wood and except the two issues above, everything else looks great and original.
Many thanks
Travis
The firing pins are all the same. The early bushed firing pins were made in three different sizes, but that was for a Regular frame gun.
Travis in reading your post again, you are talking about the split extractor stem that has a broken pin. They are pressed in and you should be able to see the pin showing faintly on the outside where it was ground.
It is not the main split stem but the smaller pin. I will look a little closer. I figured it was not too difficult a fix.
I have extra firing pins so I should be up and running in short order.
Many thanks
Travis
The pin was threaded in. you would have to drill out any remains of the old pin (without damaging the threads) and make a new pin and thread it.
Travis,
If you have or can find a left hand drill small enough to miss the thread, it may back the pin out.
Mike
I have some micro drills bits so off to the races.
Thanks to all
I have some micro drills bits so off to the races.
Thanks to all
Don't forget to start with a well centered dimple made with a sharp center punch. Small drill bits "walk" very easily. Use high rpm and low pressure. If the broken surface is very uneven, it often helps to use a carbide dental burr to smooth things up. Ask your dentist to save some used burrs for you. This is the kind of job that makes me glad I bought a Unimat lathe-mill-drill years ago.
If you can find a left hand center drill in the size you need it will be well worth the cost, even if you never use it again. They don't wander.
SRH
Here ya' go, Travis. Great company to do business with. Ship very quickly.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01043017 SRH
The steady pin is driven in but the thing we may all been missing is that there is a second pin driven across the steady pin from the side of the ejector in order to hold it in place. This has to be drilled out first as it is a blind pin and does not go all the way across the ejector I do not think.
Under magnification I can see where the second pin is actually breaking through the face of the ejector by me trying to whack the steady pin out without first removing the second pin.
OH well it had to happen. The ejector is not beyond repair but I imagine some tig is the future.
Anyone want to sell me a spare 16 bore LC Smith FW right side ejector so I can at least get up and running for the dove opener?
Thanks
Travis
Can't you just drill out the broken guide pin and solder in another one. Might take a bit of fitting to make it slide smoothly after it's in place.
But why bother with all the cross pin, blind pin thing.
Just get the old piece out and put a new piece in. Even if you drill the hole in the ejector a bit bigger than the old pin, turn a piece to fit the ejector and step it down in dia on the breech side for the correct 'pin' size.
Before you reinstall the pin, you can fix any damaged from the blind pin popping thru the surface. Just clean it good with acetone, flux it and lay a dot of hard solder (High Temp Silver Solder) in there and it'll draw right into any small cracks or crevices. File and polish it smooth.
A tiny discoloration in the steel from the silver solder is all that'll show. It'll work two more lifetimes and more w/o a problem. Then fix that pin and take it hunting.
Travis go to the L.C. Smith site and I posted pictures of what I think you are talking about. The "second pin" does not have to be removed, you just have to push on the extractor activator and then the split extractors will come out.