New member, thought I would post an in depth restoration of one of the big bores. Picked this guy up from armslist last year. Gun has the following issues:

-damaged and warped wood furniture
-buggered screws
-pitting with all original finish gone
-dings and scratches expected from a gun made in the early 1880s
-minor mechanical repairs such as firing pin wearing down extractor
-while firing pin is on center, the breech favors one side of the frame, and finally, some idiot stamped an “s” on both the barrel and 2 parts of the receiver

Will post pictures tomorrow when I figure out how to add several photos!

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Nick, we recently had a thread on the Shattuck guns. I'll bring it back to the top of the main forum for you.

Your gun appears to be the "American" model. I hope you will repost your pictures in that thread...Geo

And WELCOME to Doublegunshop!

Geo, not sure if you mean post the finished pictures or move the entire forum. Don’t want hijack a thread?
Before even attempting the wood, the large components of the gun needed to be filed and sanded as a single piece. All surfaces that butt up to other parts will be sanded flush to each other first, to 120 grit. Then I can sand all remaining surfaces on those parts to 120 individually, fit the wood then sand the whole assemblies to 400 grit and finish. Nothing worse than a wood stock that doesn’t fit or rounded over parts.
First step is fit the breech block and receiver. They didn’t line up perfect from the factory as you can see the breech sticks out on the left side slightly. This allowed me to shave off the aweful stamp while I was bringing everything flush

Same goes for barrel, not terrible from factory but now it meets flawlessly









Goodbye stamp (you can see how dished out the screw holes were upon initial filing.

Ready to fit to new wood, TONS of sanding to get to 120, hardest part was removing file marks from shaping. Sanding to higher grit should go very quick when the time comes At this point the receiver is painted for protection awaiting fitting the stock. The sucker will rust if you look at it wrong

That was a lot of work. You should be proud of it...Geo

Truly a labor of love. You do nice work.

Nick, are you sure all those S marks you removed were not Shattuck maker's marks?...Geo

Nice job of polishing.

Here's a link to one that's been sold.
Some nice pics of orig condition to go by in your restoration.
..and maybe you saw it already.

http://www.antiquearmsinc.com/shattuck-shotgun.htm

Kutter ,
That link was actually the first time I had come across the shotgun, wanted it as soon as I saw it.
I’m positive those stamps were not from the manufacturer, it looks as if a 5 year old made them and no other shattuck I’ve seen has them

took the barrel off using the super high tech wrench seen in the picture. I struggled to struggle to unscrew it, took at least 300 ft lbs of force. Sanded barrel in lathe (corrected uneven barrel walls) I held off sanding the last 1/2 inch for fear of rounding an edge. Screwed barrel back into breechblock and sanded that portion by hand to keep perfect fit . Ready to make wood forearm
For those wondering , the stock grain direction is not optimal for strength so I will drilling longways into the wrist and epoxying thin steel rods inside it. same effect as rebar in concrete

Most annoying part about this project is EVERYTHING has to be prepped together before finishing. So I decided to finish the one part I could, the trigger guard. it simply screws on so it doesn’t have to be sanded in line with the other parts.

Step one: file and sand the part





Step two: go to local Walmart and get the cold blue kit. It comes with degreaser, instructions and everything you need



Step three: Throw the cold blue in the trash and order your favorite flavor of rust blue



Rust, boil, card and repeat 10 times



1 part done

Nick looking awesome. What happens to be your favorite rust blue?

Thanks!
I’ve been using brownells classic rust blue with good results.
I have suspicions it is diluted muriatic acid by its yellow color.
Couple notes:
-Babysit the first coat, it forms quick so I don’t like putting it in high humidity areas.
-small q tips work great , apply it lightly.
-it is slow to rust on subsequent coats which helps avoid dulling the metal.
-I typically wait overnight to boil (don’t be a tightwad and use distilled water or it won’t work), clean with blue scotch bright pad under water, buff using a quick pass on WORN wire wheel, finally, a few passes with a green scotch bright pad submerged in acetone helps blend, get tight areas, and degrease, I apply next coat as soon as acetone evaporates. Use long gentle strokes in the same direction with the green scotchbrite pad

Thanks Nick.

I hope we haven't seen the last of this project.