A little confused, some say anodizing, but wouldn't that be for aluminum? What would you use to darken Nickel Silver?

Since it's a bit of an unknown, I would consider treating it like brass. If there's a way to test finishes off the piece, that might be the best way to decide if things are meeting expectations. Best of luck with it.

It doesn't like to darken or oxidize because of it's nickel content. No silver in it. Has copper & zinc though.

MOst cold gun blue will get you a yellow look to it and that's about all.

BirchWood CAsey SUPER gunblue will impart a black coating on nickelsilver (German Silver).
Not the B/C 'Perma Blue',,,but their 'Super Gun Blue'.
The PermaBlue won't do much to N/S,,just that yellowish color previously mentioned.
I've used it and it works well. Most everyone else says it works well.
A few comments on the almighty net say it doesn't work. Maybe a contaminated bottle of the stuff, uncleaned surfaces,,or perhaps B/C changed the chemicals in it.
Wouldn't be the first time they've done that to their products.

There's a product called JAX Blackener that is for use on steel and nickel.
Same idea,, a jet black coating.
https://jaxchemical.com/shop/jax-iron-steel-nickel-blackener/
Supposed to work exc on N/S

None of these give you a very tough finish and they usually take some experimentation in application techniques and even sometimes diluting them to get the best results.
A thin overcoating of clear finish like that applied over case colors probably isnt a bad idea.


Another is Midas Nickel Oxidizer.
This one probably is NOT what you are looking for. This product is more for sculpture and engravings where you want to leave darkened patina in the crevices and cuts of the part or work. Plus some distress to the surface overall.
An instant antique finish would be a better description.

There was a product called 'True Black #5' sold by some jewelry supply houses that was excellent for turning N/S black.
But I don't see it for sale now taking a quick look around.
Maybe to dain'gous,,or the name alone sounded like it might be a bathtub gin and not FDA approved.
Might still be out there though. It was more than 10 or 12yrs ago the last time I saw it around.

Hope this helps.

Nothing I know of short of paint.
Nickel silver is very corrosion and tarnish resistant.
Maybe some of the baked on gun finishes.
Chuck

Thanks guys, my screw up it's got to be nickel steel.

Great info anyway!

Win Model 12s from the '20s were "nickel steel"...Geo

Jewelry supply catalogs carry various chemicals that will do a very nice job of blacking nickel silver. Birchwood Casey used to make one specific for the job but that was a long time ago.

Oops, now I see you meant nickel steel....no idea.

Yeah I messed up, the receiver is nickel steel, not silver, Brass black will work on nickel silver.

I have a Wickliffe 76 single shot and a Mauser model 66S bolt action. Both have actions made with nickel steel, Both were hot blued, and both have turned a plum color over time. This plum coloration is very common on guns that have actions or receivers made of steel with a high nickel content. If I recall correctly, this was discussed in one or more of the Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks volumes.If I'm not mistaken, they recommended that the parts should be hot blued at a somewhat higher temperature than is normally used. I wish I knew for my own guns, whether they would need to be in the white to be reblued, or if a simple degrease and dunk in the salts would restore the original blue black finish.

Try it and see what happens. With those rifles you can't hurt anything.

keith,
If my old memory hasn't failed me, I believe one of the articles in "kinks" recommended heating the tank with the receiver submerged. I think another recommended periodically dunking the receiver in an ice water bath and returning it to the tank, until the color is satisfactory. If I'm wrong, "thousand pardons".
Mike

Just asking a question. Is it nickel that causes the Plum color??
3 1/2% nickel rod is standard for firearm welding so the hot blue will match.
Seems to happen more on cast parts like the Wickliffe, single barrel shotguns, even Ruger had the problem.
Don't know the answer, but rust blue does not seem to turn Plum.
Chuck

Thanks Chuck, it's on a BSA double, definitely nickel steel.

If you have nothing useful to offer Billy, why don't you just go back to supporting the anti-gun Liberal Left Democrat politicians you vote for and love so dearly. A gun guy who votes for politicians with anti-gun voting records is about as intelligent as a parent who would hire a convicted pedophile to babysit their kids. But that's you Billy.

Mike, I wasn't certain myself about the Brownell's Kinks book's recommendations for changing the process for hot blueing guns with high nickel content in their steel. I also don't know how high the nickel content is when it creates problems. I've used Brownells 3 1/2% nickel steel rod to TIG weld bolt handles and the trigger guard of a German Herman Eichhorn 16 ga. sidelock double. But I didn't follow up those jobs with hot salts blueing.

Chuckster, I know that the Wickliffe actions were investment cast, as are many Ruger parts, but I'd be surprised to hear that the Mauser 66S actions were. My Mauser 66S, which has barrels in .243 Win. and .30-06, is in almost unfired condition. Strangely, the plum coloration on the action is only on the front receiver ring. The rest of the action is a perfect deep blue black.

I was advised by Doug Woodin PA24, shortly before he passed away, to try his rust blueing solution on my Wickliffe, as he said it worked well on some lever actions that are prone to turning plum, but I just haven't gotten around to that project yet

Could it be done in a nitre bath ?
I've not tried but steel parts can be turned almost black if you raise the temp right up.
If caustic or rust black won't work I'd guess this may not either but it might be worth a try.