Fitting a beavertail for-end on a hammer gun - 08/12/18 11:30 PM
I started late in life shooting trap and I really enjoy it. I prefer to shoot trap with one of my L.C. Smith hammer guns. You get a lot of looks but most everyone likes to look at it. It started with a set of 32" Field Grade barrels. These are the first set of barrels (it is now a 5 barrel set)that needed to be filed slightly on the breech and extension rib to fit. The lever is way over to the right as the opening in the extension rib is smaller than on most barrels and the rotary bolt engages it ok. I have never had it open. I could file the slope on the extension rib if needed.
The beavertail for-end was made for an L.C. Smith, I just had to add wood to the bottom where the ejector springs went. The for-end I used I made to fit all the other barrels. Once you get the for-end right on one, no more work can be done on the for-end but has to be done to the loop on the barrels. Sometimes it just means a little filing on the back of the loop to get the iron to fit into the slot for the loop. It takes more time to fit the for-end/s than anything, especially when the other 3 barrels fit right on. (not counting the original set)
Hammer gun iron, I had to Mig front hole to add an extension piece on.
This shows a better picture of weld.
Re-drilled hole for banjo escutcheon screw. It fit after some careful measuring as it was a blind hole.
Metal extension brazed on to accept recoil rod that goes through front of beavertail.
Using a dowel with a blunt end along with some Prussian Blue to mark where 10/32 hole has to be for recoil rod.
Got a little ahead of myself as this last picture does not show the hole for the banjo escutcheon machine screw.
Made a half-assed recoil rod, did not feel like turning a whole length down to size, just made a head and pressed it on.
If you notice the crack in the front, it is because I became impatient and shot 2 rounds of Trap with it without the recoil rod in place.
A job that took many hours was fitting the roller release to the hammer gun for-end metal. As you can see it is locked in place and fits snug.
Now the test, putting the wood on and trying it. This is either a success or failure as you don't know if it is going to work, which it didn't. At first I could not get the for-end off. I finally had to put a 1/4" dowel underneath the front of the beavertail, pry up slightly and roll the release. I was finally able to get it off and found out there was not enough movement in the roller release once it was in the wood. Had to file some out and now it works. Whew.
The last set of barrels that I put on this hammer gun are a set of 32" Specialty Grade that have a ventilated rib, reinforced loop. I got them at a decent price because someone had thin wall screw in chokes put in. Works for me and they do fit right on a Specialty Grade I have.
The beavertail for-end was made for an L.C. Smith, I just had to add wood to the bottom where the ejector springs went. The for-end I used I made to fit all the other barrels. Once you get the for-end right on one, no more work can be done on the for-end but has to be done to the loop on the barrels. Sometimes it just means a little filing on the back of the loop to get the iron to fit into the slot for the loop. It takes more time to fit the for-end/s than anything, especially when the other 3 barrels fit right on. (not counting the original set)
Hammer gun iron, I had to Mig front hole to add an extension piece on.
This shows a better picture of weld.
Re-drilled hole for banjo escutcheon screw. It fit after some careful measuring as it was a blind hole.
Metal extension brazed on to accept recoil rod that goes through front of beavertail.
Using a dowel with a blunt end along with some Prussian Blue to mark where 10/32 hole has to be for recoil rod.
Got a little ahead of myself as this last picture does not show the hole for the banjo escutcheon machine screw.
Made a half-assed recoil rod, did not feel like turning a whole length down to size, just made a head and pressed it on.
If you notice the crack in the front, it is because I became impatient and shot 2 rounds of Trap with it without the recoil rod in place.
A job that took many hours was fitting the roller release to the hammer gun for-end metal. As you can see it is locked in place and fits snug.
Now the test, putting the wood on and trying it. This is either a success or failure as you don't know if it is going to work, which it didn't. At first I could not get the for-end off. I finally had to put a 1/4" dowel underneath the front of the beavertail, pry up slightly and roll the release. I was finally able to get it off and found out there was not enough movement in the roller release once it was in the wood. Had to file some out and now it works. Whew.
The last set of barrels that I put on this hammer gun are a set of 32" Specialty Grade that have a ventilated rib, reinforced loop. I got them at a decent price because someone had thin wall screw in chokes put in. Works for me and they do fit right on a Specialty Grade I have.