Have a gun with a Parker style forend. The forend stays put, but giggles side to side one the barrel when attached. The forend will not come off until the lever is pulled. The barrel is tight to the action when the forend is off.

When this kind of issue happens, what is typically the cause. I dealt with this on a Lefever recently that had a moveable wedge and adjustment screw in the forend lump. This gun doesn’t have that feature.

Weld and refit.

The forend loosening up in this area is one of the weaknesses of the deely forend system since it has no way to compensate for wear. Though, not as pretty, a spring loaded snap on forend is far superior in this area.

Thanks. Will need to find some to do so. The fellow I had do this in the past is not around anymore. Plan to learn to do this kind of work myself at some point.

Would you have an image or diagram of which surface/s need material added?

Watch how the hook in the for end moves over the hook on the barrels. You can either build up the bottom of the fore end hook or the top of the barrel hanger.

The first thing I would check is play between the action knuckle and the forend hanger, eliminating any loosness there may solve your problem. Also check to be sure the hanger is not loose.

If you can carefully measure the distances between the latch and the iron itself with the F/E wood in place (the length of the screws). then remove the wood and put the parts together but with spacers to take the place of the wood and put the assembly on the gun,,you can clearly see what is out of kilter and where it needs help.

If the forend latch hook is a loose fit in it's corresponding notch in the forend lug on the bbl, sometimes nothing more than a slight bend to that latch hook will make up the difference needed to make it pull up securely.
Some are quite thin and pointed and bend rather easily. Others not so much and would better respond to welding if you can do it. Still others like the Parker use a separate pivoting foot to lock into the F/E lug

I prefer to simply silver solder (hard solder) a small bit of steel to the tip of the latch hook when needed and re-fit.

I file a small flat and then solder the piece in place. Used up hacksaw blades make wonderful shim stock for this process. Leave it oversize to work with, hold and clamp,
Then file to shape after soldering. The steel is hard enough to wear well but files easily. Silver/hard soldering is something you can easily do in the home shop w/o any special set up. Nothing in the part(latch) that'll be bothered by the heat.
It'll be discolored by the heat of course. Remove any heat scale w/o polishing by soaking it in very dilute muriadic acic & water for an hr or so (2 tbs per qt water). Brighten it up a bit and do some color restoration on the part to match the rest of the metal work.

You can also use the same technique but with soft soldering and splice a small piece into the forend lug itself to build up a surface that has been worn (usually cut oversize by some well meaning person!) resulting in a loose forend fit.
Things won't fly apart as a result of the heat of soldering.
A clamp to the lug is fine but you shouldn't be at it for that length of time up on that thin area to get the base of the lug and it's solder flowing.

If the F/E iron wiggles side to side while lying over the forend lug, the slot in the iron is too wide. I usually just soft solder a shim on one or both sides of the slot to center the iron and snug the fit up. No need for hard solder. Soft solder will do fine. Nothing shows as it's so thin.

Steel shim stock is available in a 'book' of sheets with varying thicknesses from about .002 to around ,035 or so.
Cut out what you need with a simple scissors after measuring with a feeler gauge. Scarf the sides of the slot clear and clean, allow a few .000 for some solder in the joint. Tin the shims. Flux everything and clamp together and sweat solder. Trim up and you are done.


..and there's always welding

Here’s a video of the issue. It would be a neat gun to have right, but someone else will need to fix it. This is currently beyond my DIY capabilities.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aLcQVdspWttwOOJrt-zZXEYkqr_zD7fA

That is really BAD!

The forend wood does not appear to be original due to the lack of the proper banjo forend tip. Likely the primary issue is poor wood to barrel fitment.

How many times i have i told you to quit buying junkers?? They just cost more in the end.

I've learned from junkers; as I am now.

Are you assessing this as a Parker, or as a Parker-style forend? It's not a Parker. It's a Philadelphia Arms Co. Fox.

Also, this condition was not mentioned pre-purchase. It will likely go back.

That explains you originally adressing it as a “parker style” forend.
Info as to what the gun was would have helped.

Either way... the forend should not be anywhere near that loose.

Not buying junkers also reduces the cost of paying return shipping.

Thank you for your feedback. It is appreciated.

100% agreement on the forend.

I think Bill gets a few gift guns to try his hand on. Never look a gift gun in the mouth...Geo

Yes Sir, I am sometimes blessed in that way. Not this time unfortunately. A little disappointed about this one.

Maybe at this years Southern, those of you who are attending can help me find a great deal on a solid gun. Daunting challenge due to little budget. A nice small English maker BLNE 12 bore would be awesome.

I’ll be volunteering Friday, stop by and say howdy.

A "small English maker BLNE" is not the way to avoid junkers, especially if you are price shopping.

Understood, I’m just drawn to them more than others. I don’t mind fixer-uppers, as long as where I am in acquires skills can deal with the issues. Old modest guns should be fixed and shot in my opinion, and others like me need modest price point guns.

Bill has the right idea. If you are building your skills junkers are perfect. If you are looking for a shooter that will give you zero amount of trouble buy something with low miles. You do not want to teach yourself on a high condition gun.

I would start by following Kutters advice and fit the metal up first. Soft solder and splice as he advised. Address the wood last. You can fix this issue just take your time.