Which is preferred, a belt sander or a large disc sander for initial grinding of recoil pads? Why is one preferred over another? I note that there are combination units available for sale that incorporate both into the same machine.

Thanks, SRH

I use a 12in disc sander with a pendulum type jig. Heavy and smooth running makes for a nicer grind.

I agree completely. I tried one of the combo units and it wore out and didn't do that good of a job. Got a 12" and will never look back. Lots easier to do a good job.

Thanks. Do you use the standard 80 grit discs for initial grinding, then finish by hand sanding with finer grit?

SRH

Just a quick thought Stan. If you go with a disk grinder, you might consider a 9" disc. You can get precision, very true running disks with a 5/8" bore and standard 3/16" key. Then you can run it on a regular one and a half horse motor that you may already have around.

A huge reason to consider the 9 inch is that with cheap spray adhesive you can use standard 9" by 11" sheet paper. Once you stick it on, you just bring a shop knife to the edge of the disc and turn it by hand to trim the excess off. Goes on and off real easy.

The working area is big enough for jigged up pad contouring, but you get way more choices in abrasives with a much better cost. I think the 12" disc is a pretty narrow application woodworking tool that you may not have much other use for.

I'm not thinking it's a downgrade, a good disc is a solid tool. Only a thought is all.

I do have an old table saw that might could be converted to a disc sander. It has a heavy cast iron bed, which would be an advantage. I'll look into it.

OTOH, I can buy a new 12", 1 1/4 horse, that weighs 82#, for $160. Wouldn't take many installations to pay for that.

Thanks for the comments, Craig.

If I may, one more related question. Mark, you said you use the pendulum type jig. I watched a video of it in use, and from what little I saw it looks as if the adjustment is made in order to align the long rod with the axis of the grip.(?) If so, is that an "eyeball" adjustment? The Miles Gilbert (B Square) style jig is set using a square. Any thoughts about this?

SRH

Stan, I make 2 adjustments and grinds. One for the heel and one for the toe. I use a Jet 12in disc with a quality 120 PSA disc. Final fit and polish is done by hand with a sanding block. Like many things in gunsmithing it is not the only way to do it and others get good results with other methods but this is what works for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiUwiXb1Bss

And just to be totally different from everyone else....I use a heavy duty belt sander, 6"x48", 80 grit on the machine, final finish by hand, all pads ground in place on the stock. I learned that way in school and am very comfortable with it. I know most folks are not. I only use the jig for grinding leather covered pads undersized to compensate for the thickness of the leather.

Thanks very much fellas.

SRH

A radial arm saw with a sanding disk works well on shaping pads & fore end tips.

Regards,
Ron

I got a big heavy duty 12" disc sander. I am trying to decide between the B & R pendulum type sanding jig, and the Miles Gilbert, or B Square style.

One question that has come to mind that I've not seen addressed is this: Both type jigs set the proper heel and toe angles, but with the Miles Gilbert and B- Square types the sides of the pad will be ground at a 90 degree angle to the base it seems, and not have the proper slight angle on the sides that will continue the line of the wood. The buttstock is thicker at the heel and toe than at the comb and grip, and it seems to me that the pad should continue this angle to look perfect.

The pendulum style looks as if it would give that taper to the sides necessary to continue the sidelines of the wood. Am I right about this, Mark? You said you use the pendulum type. Or anyone else who has knowledge of this issue.

Thanks again, Stan

Besides the adjustment for heel and toe angle by adjusting the triangle you can adjust the sideline angle by moving the hanger in or out from the disc.

Thank you, Mark. That tells me all I need to know.

All my best, Stan

I use the Miles Gilbert Jig. Not wanting to give up shop space to a big disk sander bought a Table Saw sanding disk and PSA disk in several grits from Woodcraft supply. 10 inches it's 20 bucks I think. It will fit a table saw but the Miles Gilbert Jig holds the pad high, table saw you lose what's under the arbor and table, when mounted you are not working with much of the disk.

I put it on a Arbor then chuck the arbor in my lathes 4 jaw, Run it any speed I want. About 800 rpm seems best. Home made wood table bolted to the Lathe's ways gives me full use of the disk for rough sanding. Take it almost to the line with 80 grit. Then move the jig mounted pad over to a 1x42 inch stationary belt sander for smoothing. 120 150 180 220 even 320 grit. Hand held, all I am doing on the Stationary Belt is polishing. Takes very little off. I get that very slight side angle during the polishing step.

Works for me.

Boats

Thanks, Boats.

One issue I see with the disc sander I bought, as opposed to a big belt sander, with a belt sander you could run an 80 grit to take it down most of the way, then easily change belts to a finer grit for a bit smoother finish before hand finishing. I'm sure you could start out with a finer disc, to begin with, and it would just take longer to get the pad ground down near the line. Harder to change the sanding discs that are held in place by adhesive backing. I don't see at as a big deal, though, since I will be finishing them up with a sanding block anyway.

SRH

Stan

That's a issue for sure. Disk I am running stuck a 80 one side 120 the other. I can reverse the disk and get a bit smother finish, not as smooth as it needs to finish. Plus reversing I have to adjust the 4 jaw each time to keep it turning smooth.

You want the aggressive grit to hog down, but take it too far it tear's the pad surface causing a whole lot of work to sand out smooth plus making the pad smaller. That's why I go to the belt sander to finish. Mines a small one 1x42 however used to smooth only, free hand back side of the sander, belt is not supported.

Main thing I use that sander for is tool sharpening, same way grind with a jig one big tool, to the small sander for finish.

Ideal would be all 3, big disk, big belt, small belt all running different grits. Was in a pro sharpening shop the other day. They don't change the belts, move down the line, tool to tool as they go to finer grits.

Boats

"Was in a pro sharpening shop the other day. They don't change the belts, move down the line, tool to tool as they go to finer grits."

Boats

Reminds me of a small acreage farmer here years ago who had a tractor for every implement ...... bottom plow, harrow, planter, etc. Said he didn't like readjusting things everytime he switched implements. True story.

SRH

Some of the new pads are very soft and can be a pain to sand. They almost are gummy when working. I found that by putting them into the freezer the pad got much firmer and easier to work. I did several for a Trap shooter who love the softness of the pad and thinks they absorb recoil best. I think they feel tacky to the touch but are very soft against the shoulder so might absorb more recoil.

I have noticed that, too. The pad on my MX-8 is a Kick-Eez, and it feels tacky around the heel and toe where it gets the most wear. I've seen other brands that are even worse. Good idea on the freezer, thanks.

SRH

12" Shopsmith disc sander on a Shopsmith MarkV. I use a Miles Gilbert grinding jig.

I like a belt sander too.