On the advice of my gunsmith, I purchased a can of Shooter's Choice Barrel and Choke cleaner. He told me it is the best solvent for melting plastic build up in the barrels. After shooting about 100 rounds of RST, 12 gauge ammo, I came home to clean the gun and to see how this new cleaning product performed. I have usually used Hoppes or Balistol in the past and I always clean my guns after shooting them. Well, at least I thought I was cleaning them.
To get to the point, it took me two hours and numerous clean outs before I got the barrels clean and free of the plastic fouling. I finally resorted to wrapping bronze wool around a bronze brush, attaching the cleaning rod to the end of a power drill, and reaming the barrels out for multiply times after I let the barrels soak in The Shooters Choice cleaner. Time after time of reaming and cleaning the barrels with cotton swabs, the plastic was still there but in less and less amounts. What concerned me was I was also picking up very small flecks of lead as the plastic melted and was rubbed away by the bronze wool.
Has anyone else ever experienced something like this?
Yes! And by the amount of plastic that came out on my brushes I think I must have been shooting extra full choke on my skeet gun and never even knew it. I also believe all that plastic fouling in the bores and chokes must have really been blowing my patterns. I shot that gun for years without ever doing anything more than swabbing the tubes a couple of times after each shooting session.
I have been laid up the last two weeks after having foot surgery so I thought this would be a good time to give my guns a good cleaning. I have been using Wads Out plastic solvent and it appears to work pretty well if you can handle the smell. It is not pleasent like Hoppes #9. I was also amazed at how much plastic I got out. I use small pieces of paper towel on a jag with the solvent and just keep working it until it doesn't turn black anymore. Then I run the brass wire brush through it a number of times and then start all over with the solvent and paper towel again. I do this until the bores are like mirrors. I have found that most of the plastic has been build up near the end of the chamber rather than the muzzle.
I like the idea of the power drill and the brass wool. Seems a lot easier on the shoulders.
Two more weeks of no weight on the foot. It's driving me nuts! Grouse season is going to be interesting this year. None of those 10 mile hikes if I can get out at all. If I didn't have a few good Burton Spiller books I would really be in bad shape.
Yup, Got an AYA I converted to a Slug/Buckshot gun and after about 15-20 rounds it is full of plastic. Found the shooters choice works good with one of the 12ga Stainless steel brush I got from brownells. Makes the job of cleaning much more pleasand. Spray the barrels, let em it on the bench horizontally for about 10 minutes, (roll em over at about 5 minutes) give em another quick squirt then brush them out. Usually have to repeat this an additional time or two. When clean hit them with a patch soaked in Kroil and done.
Till I found the stainless steel brushes I cussed having to do this job and even avoided taking the gun to the range so I didn't have to battle with the plastic. Now no problem...
Don
Chuck a cleaning rod in a cordless drill and attach a Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner. I use KleenBore Formula 3.
Just be sure a do the job where the flying gunk won't matter
On the advice of my gunsmith, I purchased a can of Shooter's Choice Barrel and Choke cleaner. He told me it is the best solvent for melting plastic build up in the barrels. After shooting about 100 rounds of RST, 12 gauge ammo, I came home to clean the gun and to see how this new cleaning product performed. I have usually used Hoppes or Balistol in the past and I always clean my guns after shooting them. Well, at least I thought I was cleaning them.
To get to the point, it took me two hours and numerous clean outs before I got the barrels clean and free of the plastic fouling. I finally resorted to wrapping bronze wool around a bronze brush, attaching the cleaning rod to the end of a power drill, and reaming the barrels out for multiply times after I let the barrels soak in The Shooters Choice cleaner. Time after time of reaming and cleaning the barrels with cotton swabs, the plastic was still there but in less and less amounts. What concerned me was I was also picking up very small flecks of lead as the plastic melted and was rubbed away by the bronze wool.
Has anyone else ever experienced something like this?
I've used the same product with great results. It was recommended to me for use in turkey chokes. Does an excellent job. Takes out plastic I never even knew was there. I use it on my skeet gun too. Works great. I usually use it after every 300 rounds or so to remove plastic. I coat the barrel good and set it horizontal for 15 minutes and flip it so it soaks the whole barrel. A few passes with a shotgun jag and steel wool fit tightly and it's clean. To remove lead from shooting foster type slugs I use the same system but don't use and chemicals. Just O steel wool fit tightly and some oil to make it push easy. 10-15 passes no more lead.
Maybe your bore is rougher than it appears? Holds the plastic more?
I used to know a female skeet champion. She had a wall of first place medals. The wall in the local club house she owned not a small office wall. Her attitude is why bother cleaning the barrels. She said every time she shoots it cleans the barrel. since then I simply run a fuzzy stick with a little Remoil sprayed on the tip (every few times) a bunch of times and spend my time cleaning the action. I don't see any disadvantage. Anyone with clear evidence that it matters?
I'm not a serious clays shooter and don't shoot my guns at high volume, so don't have to deal with significant buildup of plastic residue. I don't put the effort into removing 100% of it, doesn't seem to do any harm, and might even inadvertently provide a little corrosion resistance.
Jay
The real danger of lead and plastic fouling, in barrels that are not chrome lined, is that moisture eventually gets underneath the fouling and corrodes until it is either cleaned out or pits form. IMO, most pits we find in older barrels are from moisture underneath lead fouling. Of course, the corrosive primers back then only hastened this. Fouling is EVIL, and I strongly disagree with the skeet lady champion that each shot cleans the residue from the last. It does NOT!!
SRH
When cleaning a 28 ga. with lots of plastic fowling, a bronze brush on a cleaning rod was helpful on a cordless drill. Still, the job was slow. I reversed the drill and the plastic literally flew out of the bore.
Daryl
How did you keep the bronze brush and the cleaning rod from unscrewing when you reversed the drill?
Thank you
Mike
One method for plastic removal, the same one I sometimes use for removing Urethane, uses a Copper Pot Scrubber. They are actually "doughnut" shaped, so when you cut into it, it turns into a rolled up sheet. Take a bore brush one gauge smaller than your bore, and cut the copper the same width as the brush. Unroll the copper and roll the brush up in it. Used in a drill, it removes plastic and urethane well and won't scratch the bores.
Agree with Stan. Building a laminate of carbon and plastic seems like a bad idea. Environmental conditions could explain why some get away without cleaning.
As for a best way to remove plastic, have found Slip2000 is about the fastest solvent for choke tubes. Just put them in a jar for 15 minutes or so, then wipe off.
As for bbls, every solvent mentioned works. Here are some I've used: WD40, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Hoppes #9, Ballistol, Klenzoil, Brake cleaner, Carb cleaner, mineral spirits, and diesel (yup, just once).
Abrasives like scotchbrite, copper wool, wire brushes on drills, etc. facilitate removal, but are messy. I hate cleaning the crud out of bristles. Abrasives are not necessary if you can find the patience to let chemistry work for you. Just generously apply whatever solvent you like - I hose WD down the bore usually. Then forget about it.........like 2-3 hrs minimum, more is better. Overnite is best. In the AM plastic comes out in sheets just with snug fitting patches.
Not everyone has patience, so cordless drills have their place.
Skeettx, I just tightened the joint a bit and the reverse pressure was not enough to untighten it.
Shooter Choice is great stuff! I shoot 5 to 10,000 rounds a year, typically I soak my tubes in a tube of ATF and acetone for several days. If I can't Shooters Choice is the way to go. If you want to have a conversation about the importance cleaning call Briley. If you get the boss you will get a sermonette. It is very important if you do much shooting.
bill
Mercury Quicksilver fuel system cleaner is awesome stuff for removing plastic, powder, and metal residue from both shotgun and rifle bores. It is every bit as effective as Shooters Choice but costs less per ounce. Available at your Mercury outboard dealer.
"Agree with Stan. Building a laminate of carbon and plastic seems like a bad idea. Environmental conditions could explain why some get away without cleaning.
As for a best way to remove plastic, have found Slip2000 is about the fastest solvent for choke tubes. Just put them in a jar for 15 minutes or so, then wipe off.
As for bbls, every solvent mentioned works. Here are some I've used: WD40, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Hoppes #9, Ballistol, Klenzoil, Brake cleaner, Carb cleaner, mineral spirits, and diesel (yup, just once).
Abrasives like scotchbrite, copper wool, wire brushes on drills, etc. facilitate removal, but are messy. I hate cleaning the crud out of bristles. Abrasives are not necessary if you can find the patience to let chemistry work for you. Just generously apply whatever solvent you like - I hose WD down the bore usually. Then forget about it.........like 2-3 hrs minimum, more is better. Overnite is best. In the AM plastic comes out in sheets just with snug fitting patches.
Not everyone has patience, so cordless drills have their place. "
True Story. Best post on the matter.
Shooter choice is what we used on the team, I would shot 400rd a weekend and 50---150 register targets.
The easiest, quickest and best thing I have used to clean a shotgun barrel with is WD40 and a boresnake. For some reason this taboo elixir works on plastic wad buildup, I simply hose the inside of the barrel let sit a minute, run the snake back and forth 3-4 times and presto shiny tubes.
The easiest, quickest and best thing I have used to clean a shotgun barrel with is WD40 and a boresnake. For some reason this taboo elixir works on plastic wad buildup, I simply hose the inside of the barrel let sit a minute, run the snake back and forth 3-4 times and presto shiny tubes.
+1. I also use WD40, but only on the bores. I spray it down let sit for an hour or two. Run a patch (I use wadded up toilet paper) thru the bores until the bores are shinny. Sometimes I use a brush (when the bores are really dirty). Then I run a oiled patch thru the bores and I'm done. It works for me.
Good Luck!
Greg