Has anyone used a brass wire wheel to card barrels during the rust blue process? I happen to have one laying around. Any problem using this wheel?
Derrick

Yes do not use brass to card, the brass will rub off on to the blued metal.

Noooo, toss it before usingit on steel. Go to Brownells and order a decent fine stainless wire wheel from them. Ken

So stainless steel is the only material to use then?
Derrick

Use the SS wheel (when available) from Brownells or card by hand using degreased 4-0 steel wool. The wheels have not been available so I have been carding by hand. Use the wheel at a slow (about 500 RPM) speed--that means gearing down a 110 v motor (like a 1/3 horse cooler motor) or using a 12 V system. Unless someone has a better idea...

Thanks...

I have a better idea if you can afford it. Since I work for an electric motor mfg I have access to old equipment.
I reccomend using a motor and a drive (VFD- Variable Frequencey Drive). With a drive and motor package you can vary the speed of the motor. You have the capability to take a 1800 rpm motor and turn it down lower than the 500 rpm (for carding) and you can up the speed (past 1800 rpm) for buffing. If you use a 1 hp motor or smaller you can purchase a drive that accepts 110v single phase and puts out 230v three pase to the motor. Three phase motors costs alot less than a compariable single phase.
Derrick

Oh yeah ---- be sure to clean oil from steel wool before using. Ken

You (and your barrels) will be much better off if you don't use a buffing wheel, regardless of speed.

From my wonderful world of conveyor, we use 480V, 3-phase motors and VFD's all the time. Unless you get those parts for free like you do, you don't want to spend money for a solution like that! $$$$$ (I coulda bought a nice used double for that kind setup!)

However, that would be one of the coolest rigs to tinker with, I'll give you that!

Mike Doerner

Dumb question here: What is carding? Is an actual card of some sort used or is it just a misnomer for polishing barrels?

Mark,
The latter. Carding [or scratching], is simply removing the loose rust while leaving what's adhered well. I prefer steel wool, and don't degrease the wool first. I wipe the work down with degreaser after each carding, instead.
Jim

In the 1800's whenslow rust bluing began, a piece of cardboard was used to "card" the loose rust off the metal. Cardboard back then was layered with a glue that became brittle and helped knock that rust off--- Ever since it has kept that name.

Ken

Ken,
I may win Trivia Pursuit now! Thanks for the answer, I have always wondered why they call it carding.
Jim

I actually believe that carding comes from the name of the tool used in the processing of cotton or wool.
The word comes from the Latin name of teasel (carduus) which was used first for that function.
Manual cards (the hand tool) can be used for carding gun barrels.
You can also buy a card to clean your hand files.
I really doubt that this word has anything to do with cardboard.
Best regards,
WC-

I agree with WildCattle.
I remember seeing my Grandmother Card Wool. The cards I am familiar with were made of wood with one end of rows of short pieces of wire embedded therein. In carding the wool or cotton a pair was used & the mat'l sort of combed between them. As a machinist/modelmaker have used a file card numerous times, here of course you only use one & use the card to clean the teeth of the file.
In all of my reading over the years have never seen mention of using cardboard to scratch off a gun barrel in the browning/bluing process.

I had always read the term originated from the wool industry as well. Welcome back Ken!

Steve that would be nice if Ken were back, but that post was from 2006.

not enough coffee this morning apparently, Thanks for pointing out what I should have seen.

I've heard of people having flash backs....think it's the dust from all the "turd polishing".

Back to the question of speed, it is simpler to use a countershaft with large pully to slow it down.
Mike

I tried stepping one down with a pully, never could get it slow enough. I put a VFD on my router for my pantograph and it works great for about 100$. Not sure if you can fit one on a standard electric motor or not for reasonable costs. My guess is you can.

I had bought one for some of my routers 25years ago before variable speed routers came out. It was less than this one and they do work good if you have to dial a slower speed in. Most routers are running at least 10,000 rpm and you can bring it to a dead stop with this type. Mine you can clip on to your belt and reach down and adjust the speed.

For carding I use either burlap or denim, also the grey Scotchbrite pads. On the ribs, a fine wire brush.

Grey Scotchbrite? hmm I only use that stuff if I get scaling, otherwise it seems to remove my bluing as well. You must card very gently? I card by hand after rusting with steel wool but use the fine wheel before I apply my acid. It seems to homogenize the finish nicely.

Steve, I think I had read on here that Dr. Gaddy used Scotchbrite. I have brown green and grey, and I do use it gently. I have never found a wide, fine enough wheel to card that way.

I bought mine years ago from Brownell's. I still have one wheel left. Jim Biar (sp?) halfmoon gunshop? Fullmoon gunshop? I believe he has the wheels, or so I was told last week.

Most bench top drill presses can be slowed to 600rpm with the belts.