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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 42
bczrx Offline OP
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Sidelock

Joined: Jul 2017
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Hello Everyone,

Newbie here. I apologize if I am not doing this right. Please point me in the right direction if I am off base.

I will make my question quick, because I don't want to overwhelm you with detail- but I can if you want or need it!

Last year I picked up a 1960 JP Sauer & Sohn Model 60 Deluxe SxS, which is based on the Anson & Deeley boxlock action, without the Greenley cross bolt or cocking indicators.

In terms of removing the stock, there is only one screw/bolt head visible: the one holding the trigger guard in place, underneath at the rear of the trigger guard.

The question: is this a wood screw, holding the guard in place, or is it a metal screw, holding the guard to the lower frame tang?

Thank you


Classic 'field' SxS's are what draw me in- that way I can have more than one!
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Joined: Jan 2002
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I don't know what a jp Sauer 60 looks like but I think I can help. First, let down the hammers using a wooden block to cushion the pins. If the gun has a floorplate that is separate from the trigger plate remove that. The trigger guard screw is a wood screw that just holds the guard. Take that out and raise the guard out of its inletting w/o chipping the wood. A little forward pressure should pop it loose. Unscrew the guard from the frame. Now you can see a screw that runs up from the lower to the top tang. That needs to be removed but I usually remove the screw that you'll find under the toplever first. That will be very tight and is what really holds the stock on the frame. After both screws are out, raise the trigger plate out of the inletting and the stock will be free. Use properly fitted drivers and don't bugger the screws.

Last edited by Hammergun; 07/03/17 07:36 AM.
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bczrx Offline OP
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Hello Hammergun,

Thanks for the tips!

This is good info. Once I get that wood screw removed, I can follow these directions. One interesting point is that there is no screw under the top lever. I see where a bottom screw threads up into the top tang, at the rear-most edge, but there is no bolt hole or screw under the lever.

Thanks for the information and tips!


The biggest problem is that a previous owner buggered the wood screw, and it is in there TIGHT.

I will try the drill press technique to create constant downward pressure while attempting to unscrew it.

If it is a wood screw and the head continues to disintegrate, I know I can remove it and repair any wood hole issues with a hardwood dowel cut to fit. I was just being cautious until I figured out if it was wood or steel that it was threading/locking into.

I just hope to not need to do that.

I am also sure I need to replace this screw once it is out. I don't want to put it back in and have the same problems next time.

At least it isn't one of the engraved screws from the bottom of the floorplate.


Classic 'field' SxS's are what draw me in- that way I can have more than one!
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The advice about properly fitted screwdrivers is key if you're going to do anything with screws on doubles. A 60 Deluxe isn't a best gun by any means, but it's certainly nice enough that you don't want to mess up the screws.

Joined: Jul 2017
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bczrx Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: L. Brown
The advice about properly fitted screwdrivers is key if you're going to do anything with screws on doubles. A 60 Deluxe isn't a best gun by any means, but it's certainly nice enough that you don't want to mess up the screws.



Thanks again for all the help.

I tried the Brownell's specialty screwdriver bits and couldn't get enough purchase.

I looked at it carefully, weighed up my options, and today did the unthinkable: got a extra-fine needle tip grinding bit and fit it to my dremel. crazy

I masked the area around it with blue tape, and then took my ever-loving time using the tip, straight down, to clean up the slot and cut it deeper, so that the bits would be deep enough to get some bite- and quit rounding the existing slot.

After I was satisfied it was even and deep enough, I put the proper width Brownell's bit into an adapter and used the drillpress technique to gently and VERY FIRMLY apply pressure.

It broke free and unscrewed. grin

Interestingly enough, this is not a wood screw. It is a machine screw that fixes the trigger guard to the lower trigger plate at a point about 1/4" in front of the rear mounting screw.

I used Oxy-Pho creme to reblue it, and I'll be ok with the outcome.

It was on the bottom, and now just looks like a wide slotted screw, instead of a fine slotted screw.

Now I am figuring out how to disassemble the action to clean it.


Thanks again for all the tips you gave!


Classic 'field' SxS's are what draw me in- that way I can have more than one!
Joined: Mar 2005
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What's a Greenley crossbolt. A Greener crossbolt.

Sauers are nice guns. Good luck with it. smile


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