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Put em all where they needed to go! I see it has a single trigger and fires the left barrel first? .....LK

"Well, he ignored me for the next few months. I finally sent him an email telling him I wanted to return the gun and to make sure he reimbursed me for the return shipping. He agreed and asked me to send the tracking information."


I personally think this part of your argument ends the argument. It doesn't matter if you were in fact ripped off, or it was buyer's remorse, you held onto to the gun for too long.

I bought a Model 21 from a well-known dealer. While discussing its condition on the phone I specifically asked if the gun had been reblued. The person on the phone with the company replied, no it is all original. When I received the gun, it was clearly reblued. I never left my receiving FFL with it, I had him ship it right back. Once received back by them I had to be proactive with getting a full refund. I could have lived with it if it had been reblued correctly, and he did better on the price. But it wasn't and he claimed it was all original.

Most dealers will make good, but you have to do your part. A few well-known dealers exhibit a stunning lack of candor. Not necessarily lying, but not telling you everything either, unless you ask. You want to buy a gun; they want to sell a gun. Its why they call it a deal.

You have to move quickly on this sort of thing, and "the next few months" is on you, I believe. JMHO.

I have a 4E Flues 20ga, and I bought it with the intention of using it in the field. It currently has an issue that needs a gunsmith's attention. But once that is taken care of, I fully intend to hunt with it.

Alois Jiricek, the Grandfather of Hans Jiricek, was born in 1871 in Raczice, Czechia and moved to Imperial Vienna. Otto Jiricek, Father of Hans, was born in Vienna in 1904 and also Hans Jiricek was born in Vienna 26 years later in 1930. None of his family, ancestors nor descendants, were in the craft of gunmaking. Hans' specialty was in stock repair, specifically in stockbending and broken stocks where he employed the >>tongue & groove<</„Nut und Feder“ method. With the passing of Hans, this truly marks the end of an era.


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

By 1919/20 the grades were Field, No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, No. 4, No. 5, No. 6, No. 7 and Sousa. By about 1923 the No. 6 was gone from the listings.

Between 1915 and 1918 as the composite barrels were phased out The No. 1 Special was dropped when the No. 1 got steel barrels, and then in late 1919 the bold floral engraved No. 1 1/2 became the new No. 1.

Yes, I stand corrected.
What were the grades then?
S,F, 1, 1 1/2, 2, 3, ?

Looks like a No. 3 to me.

My only critique is that I wouldn’t consider a grade 4 Flues to be a field gun.
That’s like 5 grades above their entry level Flues.

My 1959 Browning catalog and price list show the solid rib still being offered on standard weight Grade 1 12- and 20-gauges. The next Browning catalog and price list I have is 1966 and no solid ribs.

Very difficult to read about Chambers but that is the typical progression. My Question is just how many members on this thread have passed or are in such poor health that they cannot contribute?????

Serbus,

Raimey
rse

Good read. Thanks.

Really two stories: a shotgun and shotgun family with a nice update on the shotgunner’s friend, Jay Menefee, (Polywad).

https://shootingsportsman.com/this-old-ithaca/

The story was that a load of English walnut went down thanks to a German U-boat in the First World War, and Frank Major Tobin decided to get out of the firearms business.

I also believe the widespread acceptance and use of higher pressure powders would have eventually done the same.

Regardless, more often than not, the market gets it exactly right.

Best,
Ted

Dup

RyanF: The 1889 F grade Lefever I was checking out earlier this week certainly looked like English walnut to me. Most of the better doubleguns being made in this country (in the 1880s through the 1890s) used this "better" wood for a number of reasons, arguably the biggest being bragging-rights (they were competing with each other and even imported British guns for the more well-heeled market here). You really could order what you wanted in those days and most wanted English walnut or better (arguably, French).

Homesteader, I looked at the photo of your L.C. Smith, and am extremely skeptical that this is some original and rare grade or variant. More like 100% skeptical.

Take a good look at the picture. The lock is stamped L.C. Smith in the usual location. There is dark grime, dirt, or whatever down in those stamped letters. Then look at the crude "Mark's Special" engraving. It was obviously added after the gun was case hardened. We can see remnants of the original case hardening colors. Engraving is almost always done before case hardening, because it is much tougher to cleanly cut the case hardened surface. The engraving cuts are shiny and not filled with the same grime or dirt that is seen in the stamped L.C. Smith lettering.

There is nothing here that should compel anyone to go off on a wild internet search, looking for some old defunct Mark's Hardware Store or Emporium that might have commissioned Hunter Arms Co. to produce a shotgun with Mark's name on it. There is nothing here to remotely suggest this was built as a presentation gun for Mark Twain, or Mark Zuckerberg either.


It might be entertaining to start a new Thread, just to see who might be naive enough to think you have something almost as rare as the Czar's Parker. I'd suggest you simply accept the gun for what it appears to be... a well used 00 grade L.C. Smith that has been altered with crude added engraving, well after it was built. It is not some rare variation that would be the heart's desire of any intelligent L.C. Smith collector. If it is safe to shoot, then use it as a Rainy-Day-Loan-it-to-Your-Brother-in-Law gun. Don't waste good money on a Factory Letter as you were advised on the L.C. Smith forum. Keep the money to buy some appropriate low pressure shells instead.

I last spoke to Robert about 4 years ago. Not well and mostly blind. Could no longer read his computer. I don’t think he follows these forums anymore. While Robert was/is extremely knowledgeable I’m sure others can help you. Take Shotgunjones’s advice.

I suggest you start a new thread, and let this one die... again.

What brand or type of checkering tools would you all recommend for a novice who wants to clean up old worn and clogged up with varnish etc. checkering.

Thanks,
John

Is the right hammer a replacement? I can’t tell from the pictures.

Nice old gun.

Best,
Ted

Anybody?

It's a 1901 Grade 00 gun. I think the simplest engraving started with their Grade 1 guns, so this seems some thing special I'm trying to find the history about.

https://members.boardhost.com/lcsmith/msg/1713134025.html

Wow, what a nice Scott! Great condition all the way around, checkering is in amazingly good shape. I don't believe it's ever been redone. A real peach.
JR

Well, just to to imgbox & upload a stack of fotos & choose >>Adult Version<< and then post. When you view you will have all you wish & more.


Serbus,

Raimey
rse

I am kind of interested in the porn, but it seems to be deleted.

Indeed. He is racking up negatives pretty regularly now. Interesting that he is an "A" rated seller. I wonder how far he has to slip to become a "B"?