doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Parker Bros Hammer 10 gauge

Doh...didn't notice it was a hammer gun.

Tom,
Take a look at Keith Kearcher's web site. He has a reputation for working on Parkers and damascus barrels. He can probably provide you with a good idea of what things need to be checked out and associated costs.

http://members.toast.net/keithkearcher/

Sweep;
Not that familar with Parker hammer guns, but suspect by 1888 they would have been using what are referred to as rebounding locks. On these locks with the hammers down they do not quite contact the firing pins, even with the pins fully retracted into the breech. Pushing upon the hammer with your thumb will reveal it canot be pushed forward onto the F-pin "Unless" the trigger is pulled. While admitting that "Safety" is largely the "Operator Factor" my personal belief is the rebounding locks are the safest type of hammer guns, & "Personally" if carrying one of these afield, I cary it loaded, hammers down & gun closed & securely bolted. If carrying any gun open be absolutely certain it has an adequate Check Hook, many didn't, though I suspect the Parker did.

If this is circa 1888 it should be a Fifth Variation "type b" (1882-1917) with a dolls head extension on the top rib. Even though Titanic Steel barrels were introduced in the 1890's, these damascus hammer doubles were popular right up to WWI. The curved "fish tail" top lever is very "cool" and has appeared on high grade hammerless models too. It's thought that the design was to provide clearance between the lever and the right hammer when opening. Not seen on any other doubles (American, English or European) of any era to my knowledge. I think the asking price is reasonable...I'd buy it if I were you.

2-piper,

Parker top lever hammergun locks are rebounding. The rebound is is powered by the firing pin spring. If the firing pin spring is absent or broken the hammer will not rebound to the safe position. Try pulling the trigger on an uncocked hammer, and push the hammer forward. You'll see the effect of the firing pin spring.

Phil

Phil;
Thanks for the clarification. Have seen a number of Parker hammer guns over the years but never personally owned one & had never really checked out their function. Had not run into this use of the firing pin spring as the rebound before, but should work fine.

Thank you all for your relpies. I checked Keiths site. I went back to the gunshop to buy the gun and found that someone had put $100 down on it. So, he has 1 week to pick up the gun or it will be for sale again and I should have 1st chance for it. I'll let you know how things turn out. Thanks again for the reponses.
Tom

Well I have waited a long time but I finally was able to purchase the gun.I am a little confused on the grade it is though. I figured out 1888, and Phil you are correct about the hammer/firing pin springs. When pushing on the hammers nothing happens but when you pull the triggers the firing pins move in and out.
As to what grade it is any help is appreciated. I can take some pictures tomorrow but am embarressed to say I can't post them. I can email but can't post yet.Anyway the desciption is as follows scroll and partridges on the front left sideplate with scroll on the hammer and the back of the sideplate. Sroll and flying ducks on the right sideplate with the same scroll on this hammer and back of plate. Those turkeys and mountains in a circle with scrollwork around it. Light scroll on the trigger gaurd and top lever and reciever. The barrel flat/ there is a D, above it to the right is a C, there is a 4 and just above that is 11. Then the patent dates. One April 76 the other is June 78. o2 on the lug. The reciever has a 2 and below it is the serial# 54879pat March 16 1875 and April 11 1876 and Sept 3 1872. ( I checked the Parker site and was thinking that this gun should have a skeleton buttlate. But it has nicely figured wood and a hard rubber buttplate. Could this be a C or D grade?) Does this all sound correct? Sorry about the long post
Thanks Tom

You describe a #2 Grade and the serialization book says it is a #2 Grade. This is also referred to later as a G Grade although in early hammer guns and ten gauges, some other designations were used in catalog descriptions if not stamped on the gun.

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