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3 members (SamW, Marks_21, 1 invisible),
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guests, and
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Key:
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Forums10
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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583 |
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,741 Likes: 56
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,741 Likes: 56 |
Yeti, very nice piece of furniture, looks to be burled. Great job.
David
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 572
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 572 |
Yeti,very nice work. Is that stock a transition between English and American? The colors seem to be quite different. Fiddleback like that is difficult to sand and get straight without waves. Once again very nice work.
Regards, Gordon
Our Dogs make our lives better
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 572
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 572 |
Yeti,very nice work. Is that stock a transition between English and American? The colors seem to be quite different. Fiddleback like that is difficult to sand and get straight without waves. Once again very nice work.
Regards, Gordon
Our Dogs make our lives better
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 527
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 527 |
Yeti: Good work and great looking wood, I enjoy looking at this sort of work, effort and mother nature's artistry. --- John Can.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,136 Likes: 98
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,136 Likes: 98 |
What is the LOP of that stock? It looks like it's about 18" from the angle of the camera. Beautiful work. You've been blessed with an extraordinary talent.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
Second John's comment. Length does appear Yeti-esque but not abominably so. Do I detect spalting to left of tiger wood?
jack
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 749 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 749 Likes: 16 |
Yeti,
That's a very nice job! I'll be interested in seeing your checkering pattern when you're finished.
Last edited by Doug Mann; 11/26/07 12:20 AM.
Doug Mann
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583 |
It's a 15 1/8th LOP with a slight concave curve to the bottom line of the stock. It's claro, I don't think it's grafted, and there was no soft spots in the wood (I think that's what spalting means...no? It does have open grain with lots of big pores that are now black spots). I'm going with a very plain point pattern for checkering.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 144
Member
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Posts: 144 |
Looks great Yeti!!! I like the next few projects you have standing the corner!
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 809 Likes: 15
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 809 Likes: 15 |
Beautiful wood and an excellent job!
-Shoot Straight, IM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,698
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
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Mr. Yeti ---- what else is left to say ? I would be proud as punch to own that piece --- you've done a superb job & I truly look forward to seeing it after you have checkered it. What were you using as a finish & how many coats after the pores were filled ? Ken
Ken Hurst
910-221-5288
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Joined: Aug 2005
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583 |
Ken and guys, thanks for the attaboys.  I was going to use Mike Armstrong's Waterlox, but used my dependable Tru-Oil; cut %50 with Naptha for the first couple big drinks of sealer coats. Pure T-O during the wet sanding process; I wet sand all the way from 220 through 600 grit. The pores were pretty much filled by the time I done with 320 grit. After the 600 grit there was 3 topcoats of T-O plus about 5% naptha and 5% boiled linseed. The linseed oil gives me a little bit more time to fuss with the finish. Topcoats got polished with pumice/baby oil, the last one with rottenstone/oil. So maybe 8 total coats after the pores were filled, 5 sanded and 3 top.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,880 Likes: 16 |
Looking good, B. Sounds like you've got that chemistry stuff down pat.
If you ever get impatient waiting for finish to dry, give this a try. Get the aerosol Pro-Custom Oil. Spray a little bit into a small mixing cup and add 20-30% mineral spirits (this stuff is already very thin to spray out of a can anyway. You'll be able to tell when it looks like water, just barely. Sand in the finish with 400-500 as many do. Do that at least 3-4 times or as many times as you feel good about. Allow to dry (accelerate with heat). Spray the next couple coats and dry (accelerate with heat). Wet sand the finish and polish as with any other type finish. I did this whole process in a Jan winter and accel'd by hanging in front of the fireplace on my camera tripod. Drying was no more than a couple hrs. Did the whole finish process in a couple days.
BTW, the aerosol PCO is much faster drying than the canned non-aerosol. Seems different altogether.
Last edited by Chuck H; 11/26/07 05:42 PM.
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