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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
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Boy, have I a problem. I recently took delivery of an NID that has , unfortunately, hot blued barrels. Not only does this tick me off but it is a disaster in the making. The bluing salts are crusting around the solder joints and even though tight now, I can see the day that the ribs let loose. Can anyone offer some help here. What can I do to neutralize the residual salts. The two drain holes in the lower rib are open and about 5 inches from one another. This would seem to negate the possibility of flushing well. Thanks in advance for any suggestions that may have worked for you. Best, John
Humble member of the League of Extraodinary Gentlemen (LEG). Joined 14 March, 2006. Member #1.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Id try washing the barrels in a very strong solution of washing soda.....dont know if that will work with hot blue but it stops cold rust blue dead....
mix warm water and washing soda in a wall paper trough...make sure all the soda is disolved...submurge barrels and scrub the outsides with a natural stiff bristle hand brush, wash for around 15/20 minutes...let the area under the rib fill and drain numerous times....rinse dry and oil well..
gunut
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John,
The drain holes will work, I'd also remove the top front bead to allow air/fluid to escape when you submerge the barrels. I would be VERY aggressive! I'd use the baking soda to neutralize the caustic soda/lye and I'd not be afraid of a gentle boil with this solution, further several boilings with plain tap water to finish off, then spray oil in the weep holes. Lots of oil! 3in1 will work better is Brownell's water dispalcing oil, even kerosene to remove the water. Good luck. DR. BILL
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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John,
I can atest to the baking soda solution that gunut and Dr Bill have told you to use. The drain holes are a plus in this. Make sure to follow through with the oil.
Pete
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Most of good gun oil will neutralize the salt or rinse in B.O.N if you have it around, although I used BON only imedieate after removing the items from the bluing trank. There is nothing wrong with hot blue on jointed barrels as most of the chemical is only heated to 275o~650o, the correct silver braze used for barrels is in the 1200~1400 range.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
Why use a basic solution on a strong basic? Would a mild acid do more to kill the the caustic I think I would start with white vinegar. Perhaps the best idea would be to talk to a real chemist! bill
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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On this one - flush with water, preferably hot water several times, let stand for a few minutes with the void full of water to give it a liitle time to work (dissolve the caustic) then remove the water tracies by flushing with acetone ( acetone loves water), warm barrels and flush with a light oil. Remeber acid will remove hot bluing and that is why it it not used as a neutralizing flush after a hot blue. JMTCW ---John Can.
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And vinegar is acidic. I spilled Barbque sauce on an old shotgun and it removed the blue very well. Don't ask.
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
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Spraying WD-40 inside the weep holes will help to flush out any water remaining. Of course, you might get unremovable gumming on the hidden parts of the barrels and ribs. Heaven forbid!
> Jim Legg <
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Thanks friends: I will get off the dime a try your suggestions. Jim: Here is one place that WD40 will be just the ticket. When all is dry and it has a chance to solidify, there will be a permanent coating inside the rib. Couldn't ask for a better preservative. LOL All fun aside---it is a good idea and I will try it after days of the other treatments. Best, John
Humble member of the League of Extraodinary Gentlemen (LEG). Joined 14 March, 2006. Member #1.
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