sxsman1, you can Google "molasses rust removal" to read all kinds of information and misinformation about it. That's kinda why I'm leery about some of the information on the internet about the electrolysis method. Some of the info is flat out wrong, and can result in a shop fire or creating a toxic mess in your electrolyte bath.
I bought dried molasses in 50 lb. bags for about $16.50 at a local feed store. To make 5 gallons of solution, I mix about 5 lbs. with. a gallon of boiling water to dissolve it. Then I add about 4 more gallons of cold water. Then you simply suspend your rusty iron or steel items by coat hanger wire so they are completly submerged. It is best to knock off any loose rust first since it will just deplete the effectiveness sooner. Pre-clean any oil or old congealed grease because it won't work well under grease or paint. Leave the items in the solution for about a week, and then remove them to check the progress. The rust will turn to a black slimy film. It is a good idea to wear rubber gloves because it stinks and will stain your skin. You will read that it smells like vomit or baby shit, but it isn't really that bad. It does look nasty as it ferments, and it isn't something you'd want to do in your basement. Rinse the items off with a garden hose and knock the loose black slime off with a scrub brush. If any rust remains, put it back in for another week. You will be left with bare iron or steel that will flash rust again very quickly in humid weather, so you need to dry it off quickly and either oil, prime, or paint it.
The process is a chelation that removes the oxygen from rust, and leaves the iron behind. It does not attack sound metal underneath the rust. I have forgotten items left in the bath for months without any harm. You can re-use the solution many times, and it gradually loses effectiveness and takes longer to work. After it is depleted, you can simply dump it on your lawn to give your grass or shrubs a shot of iron.
It works the same as Evaporust, but is slower. It also costs far less, at less than $2.00 for 5 gallons of mixed solution. You can also use liquid molasses if your feed store carries it. Mine doesn't. The mix ratio for the liquid molasses to water is about 5 :1 or 7 : 1. It doesn't seem very critical. Feed store molasses works much better than grocery store molasses, and is also much cheaper. As I said, there is much misinformation on the internet, probably posted by people who never actually used the process. A few people report pitting of machined iron surfaces such as engine blocks or heads, but I think the pits were probably there all along, hiding under heavy rust. The process can't reverse damage... only remove the rust that is there. Don't use it on anything except iron or steel. It works great, and is limited only by the size of the tank you use. Some people line a pit with rubber or visqueen and submerge entire car frames or rusted body parts. I don't know of a better, easier, and cheaper way to safely remove rust. But if you want instant results, try something else.
