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Joined: May 2007
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Sidelock
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12g is fine, but with high cost and very limited availability to me of 8g - or 10, 16, or 28 - I'll make cases work until they're dead.

Last edited by cadet; 01/01/17 08:17 PM.
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Originally Posted By: Wonko the Sane
OK - I
ll cop to a level of ignorance here since I've not loaded on a MEC for 20+yrs. But I did load about a bazillion carts on a Grabber before I sent it down the road and moved to a Hornady - which of course sets up way different.
My only comment, obviously not relative to any 8ga things, is that I've forever been puzzled by the anality of some people in that they will NOT discard a case. And then often complain about the quality of the reload. I may not be the soul of thrift, but the love affair with the absolutely cheapest component in a load speaks to me of some problem that should be treated by a professional. Even when I was loading a few hundred/week and was scrimping with every bargain the $.05 case got loaded five times max and that was it. Now I pick them up for free and once is it. Actually I don't even do that right now the prices being that it costs me about $.01/bang shooting Wally's stuff compared to the cheapest load I could put together.
But that might just be me

have another day
Dr.WtS


Wonkster, the reloading bug mainly impacts those who shoot guns that require special care and feeding. Lower pressure than the stuff you can find at Wallyworld. And you can also make up very nice, light 3/4 oz loads for both the 12 and the 20--and you're not going to find those in the big box stores either.

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Wonco, you can't buy 8ga loads to shoot in your shotgun, they have to be reloaded and the extra ring around the brass has to be resized. Used Remington once fired hulls are $20/100 from Precision Reloading. I'm waiting on a Parker 8ga and have 48 resized hulls also waiting to be reloaded. Seeing how I don't have dies I'll probably roll crimp. Sorry, I didn't notice the shells were 8ga. If all else fails you could use a OS card under the fold crimp. I shoot mainly 12ga, and my 3/4oz loads cost about 3.45 a box. Try buying those for that price. They break clay birds just fine and don't recoil.

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Yes, yes, yes. I'm aware of all that and it was my impetus as well to reload. Currently I forego that activity because I'm not gonna pay $20/lb for powder, $30+ for a bag of shot, etc, and then donate a few hrs of time to produce what I can simply buy for a few pennies more per box. Not when I'm only shooting a couple three maybe hundred a week. And I understand the not on the market type of loads that some use. I have a machine that has been dedicated to 24gm things since it came to my hands years ago.

My comment was prompted by tw's comment that there are a variety of ways that cases degrade. Considering how long he's been reloading I suspect that he has encountered nearly every one if not all of them. The simple way to avoid those problems in my opinion is to engage a level of reality and not fall into the sow's ear syndrome.

JMO - - - YMMV

have another day
Dr.WtS


Dr.WtS
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Sidelock
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Back to my original question - the hole. I am still fighting this. I have lowered the pre crimp to the point of crushing the shell - I have played with the cam adjust and it seems to make no difference. I have read the MEC manual and watched the videos. A few shells were ok - but the very next one would be quite open.
Ultimately I will get it, but my concern is memory in the plastic ---- are the ones crimping open going to always crimp open ? They are kinda pricey to screw them all up.


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Sidelock
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Have you thought about other options. I'd look at just putting a barrier over the shot. A thin nitro card or even a Teflon tape segment. That would cover the hole easily.

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I do not like band aid repairs that skirt the real issue - I will likely use overshot cards on the ones buggered and not right - but adding the overshot card itself caused crimps to further deform and I prefer not to start there.

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Sidelock
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I have used Teflon tape. It works perfectly. Take up zero room. Buddy used the film they wrap around a house, tyvek I think it's called. Once crimped over the shot it does not move. I'd worry more about prolonging hull life than minor holes if shot does not come out.

Are the hulls so thick you need to skive them? Perhaps the plastic is too thick or stiff to crimp well the first loading. I have bought me virgin hulls with crimp areas so thick that to crimp well I had to remove a little of the plastic from the inside.

The other question is are eight bore shells best six point crimps or eight? Perhaps eightbore can answer that.

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