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Forums10
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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
Ken;
About a mile & a half from where I live there used to be a small lake which was created by a dam across the same creek which flows by by house. The remains of the dam still stand, but the lake is now dry. Used to catch some nice fish out of it. it is owned by the family who once owned the distillery of which you spoke. Back around the 1920's before this family bought it, another family built the dam & created the lake for a Resort. A short distance below where the dam is are 7 springs all bubbling out of the ground in a very small area. The amazing thing about these springs is that each one of them has a different type of water. It has been many years since I actually went there, in fact the whole area is now strictly "Posted" with big "Keep Out" signs everywhere. In the past I have been there & seen the springs personally & in fact tasted the water from them & they are in fact not the same water. One of them is Sulphur. As the crow flies as they say I live about 6 miles from the famous Lynchburg spring from which Old #7 is made, so there is certainly no indication of what their water is based on what mine is.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Some of the reading I have done has stated that a lower gloss finish is desired in some of the vintage American makes. That was the reason I gleaned for only polishing to 320 grit. Now I'm trying to figure out how to create a surface with no visible imperfections at such a low sanding factor. Do you polish the barrels higher up in shine and then dull them back down with something? Does the etchant help with this on damascus barrels? There's a lot to learn. I know I can polish a piece of metal to a mirror finish, but I'm not sure that's going to produce the period appropriate finish desired on certain guns.
Or do I have it all wrong regarding the 320 grit?
Jawjadawg: **If you want the standard "American Field Grade" barrel blue finish, polish by hand to 400 grit. **As you polish keep checking that you have removed all of the flaws/ghosts/dings/pits and other imperfections. Draw file and polish as necessary. **As you card your barrels after each rusting application CHECK the color as it darkens. When the barrels reach the FIELD GRADE BLUE, as was typical with lower grade American Field Grade guns you merely STOP with your rusting passes,boilings and cardings. **You will then have a re-blued set of barrels that should look like they did when they left the factory, if you did your homework on color and polished the barrels properly to the best of your ability. Best Regards,   Doug, Did you do the case-coloring on that as well? It's a spectacular example of workmanship, something for a humble amateur to aspire to. Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292 |
Did you do the case-coloring on that as well? It's a spectacular example of workmanship, something for a humble amateur to aspire to.
Ken
Ken, Yes, that is my case color hardening, blueing and wood refinishing. Thank you very much sir. I also scratch make original style Rocky Mountain Silver front sights for Marlin rifles that have missing original front sights when I refinish the entire gun.      Best Regards,
Doug
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,522 Likes: 223
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,522 Likes: 223 |
xs hedspace,
Walter's water had enough calcium that the pot he boiled his water for coffe in had a quater inch or more around the sides and it still didn't hurt the bluing.I'm sure that the carding removed any calcium left on the barrels, but I never saw any.My water here doesn't have a lot of calcium, but it does have other minerals.Maybe carding it well and applying the next coat with steel wool did the trick.Everybody just uses whatever works for them.
Mike
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Doug,
Are you one of the guys posting over on the Case Coloring thread on the Marlin Collector's forum? That's a great thread.
Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,213 Likes: 1192
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,213 Likes: 1192 |
That really is a great thread, Ken. Thanks for mentioning it. As I gather more info before trying my hand at it, this is another great source.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
That really is a great thread, Ken. Thanks for mentioning it. As I gather more info before trying my hand at it, this is another great source.
SRH The real thanks goes to Jawjadawg, he's given us all the opportunity to discuss all this fun stuff..
Last edited by Ken61; 02/20/15 11:01 PM.
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2 |
I'm having a problem with Mark Lee Express blue that perhaps one of you can help me with. I have been trying to blue a 1909 Colt revolver. The parts are rather highly polished and have been cleaned repeatedly with acetone as well as boiling with a degreaser. The problem is that I am having a difficult time getting some areas to rust. They get discolored after applying the blue, but don't really rust. In the past I have used the same blue and techniques on rifle parts and had no problem. Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292 |
I'm having a problem with Mark Lee Express blue that perhaps one of you can help me with. I have been trying to blue a 1909 Colt revolver. The parts are rather highly polished and have been cleaned repeatedly with acetone as well as boiling with a degreaser. The problem is that I am having a difficult time getting some areas to rust. They get discolored after applying the blue, but don't really rust. In the past I have used the same blue and techniques on rifle parts and had no problem. Any ideas?
Thanks. Most likely the alloy purity of the steel, probably has a high nickel content in certain areas..?...Hot blueing would be your alternative.....
Doug
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 390 Likes: 2 |
I didn't realize that an old colt like that would have high nickel content, but it fits the symptoms as it is behaving almost like stainless steel.
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