Here are some more pictures. I didn't realize the fore end tip was horn till you mentioned it. My top tang is more the normal lenght, but my trigger guard tang is very long. Looks like my locks are something completely different. My right hammer screw is not original, and the left one might not be either. Checkering is different also. There isn't a pointed diamond in the whole bunch. It may not be English but I doubt they were ever pointed up American style. Even considering wear there would be one left pointed somewhere, or at least nearly so. The fore end has 3 screws and only one engraved so I'm sure it's not original either.
I'd like to believe that 19335 is a serial number, and it may be, but it makes no sense to me to stamp it on the wood and not the metal. I've looked carefully though and I can't find any more numbers anywhere.
I've been thinking about your stock crack. I doubt it could be repaired. I've seen some very nicely done repairs on web sites by people who specalize in such things, but they still show if you look close. I would be inclined to replace the whole stock, and to match you'd have to do the fore end also. Any way you go I think it would lower it's value. You might be better off just to leave it alone. Just my opinion.
As far as welding to tighten up the barrel fit goes; I think you might be able to do that. People think of welding and they visualize the worse job they've ever seen with lots of smoke and sparks going everywhere. As I'm sure you know TIG would do the trick, and without melting the soft solder, if you could get to it. I'm thinking of the lugs under the barrels. If you dressed it back down carefully no one would ever know the difference. Trouble is, how would you harden it without melting the solder? I don't think soft steel would last long. Silicon bronze would work and you could dress it down with files but only just, and the color would show. There are hard TIG rods but they can't be filed, and grinding such a thing would be near imposible. Originaly these things were probably case hardened but how would you re-case it without melting the solder? You could work only on the dolls head but that would be only half the job, and what would that do to the inlay? If you decide to try it, use plenty of heat fence, but I don't think I'd risk it.
I've talked this over with my wife, who it happens teaches welding technoligy at the college level, and she agrees. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.
I've been wondering about this old gun for years and now in two days I have answers where I didn't even know I had questions. Does anyone know what the correct resolution size is for pictures, so people don't have to scroll back and forth?
