doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Repairing cracks in beater Parker Stock?

I am fixing up a beat up Parker for a field trial gun. Well, mostly my shooting student Joe Wood has done all the fixing. But anyway it has several cracks in the stock. It is already as ugly as a man's ass so pretty doesn't matter. I am looking for directions on how to glue these cracks up or otherwise repair the stock. I am going to shoot 1-1/8 oz 1200 fps low pressure loads in it. No hot loads.

Here are the pictures Joe took for me:



This is the same angle with the loose piece removed:




The right of the picture is where the end of the top tang is inletted:


Same area, different angle:


Thanks in advance.

Best,

Mike

Go over to the PGCA site and see if one of the guys can bring to the top the thread on fixing up split stock heads. You do it with a wire staple drilled and epoxied across the split. Invisible when the stock is on the gun. From the pictures you post, it looks like the stock needs a good soaking in Wonko's brew to get the crud and oil out before attempting the repair. Maybe not, but I'm no gunsmith. Good luck.

Looks pretty oil soaked to me, too. I've had old wood become unstable in the inlet areas after a soak in Wonko's brew, you have to get the oil out, but, run the risk of weird shrinking, swelling, and cracks forming after the nasty comes out. Probably the newer the wood, the better Wonko's evil brew works, without the bizarre side effects.
If you don't care about looks, 3M 2216 structural adhesive to the rescue. Buy it at a local jobber (think machinery supply, not Home Depot), slather it on, clamp, and hope like hell you don't ever have to get it apart.
Best,
Ted

I would use Acuraglass after getting the oil out of the wood. Heat it a bit to make it thin so it will flow into the cracks as deep as possible.
bill

A while back, I made a query here as to what glue would make the most invisible joint in stock repair. A couple guys responded that they would only use polyurethane glue on oil soaked wood. I haven't yet experimented with oil soaked wood to check bond strength so I wonder if it has better qualities in this application. I would still try to get most of the oil out and then do my repair fairly quickly before the really deeply soaked in oil migrated back to the surface. Polyurethane does make a very strong and fairly invisible joint in closely fitted work. Might be worth trying some on a junk stock. The major knock on it I can see is that it's messier and harder to clean up due to the foam out. It's not so hard to scrape/sand, etc. on the wood, but it gets on your hands, clamps, rubber tubing, everything.

I have the pictures and instructions on the staple method. I will be happy to e-mail them to anyone who sends me their e-address. This technique repairs the main split without putting an ugly gross bolt through the outside.

heating acraglass?? Hmmm you can do that? I usually use lacquer thinner to do that. I like the heating method though because there is no dilution.

I use a paint made from acraglass to seal the heads of stocks. Mix a tiny amount and then pour in medical alcohol to make a watery paint that dries (hardens)back to acraglass. My son taught me the trick on his RC plane. It stops model airplane fuel cold, and I believe it will do well with gun oil. I do not know how much strength it retains??
By the way gentle heat!
bill

I found a thread over on the Parker Forum for the staple repair:

http://www.parkergun.org/forums/view_topic.php?id=5925&forum_id=1&highlight=staple+repair

Best,


Mike

Looks like a good strong fix but where would you use it on this stock and not interfere with the action.

Here?