doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com case hardening

I have used Deft (clear brushing lacquer) cut 50% with acetone and brushed. It's an easy job because it levels so well and dries right now. Easy to renew. I may use it on some Damascus barrels but will spray that on. I think you could use some of these other products the same way. Tru-oil does yellow a bit but it doesn't detract from most case color jobs. TO is put up in spray cans as I recall.

PeteM is 100% right. Classic Guns uses Galazans lac. and cuts it until it is like water. Jihn applies three coats and bakes between each coat. He tells me he uses a large sable hair brush to apply.

Depends on if you are willing to take the metal off the gun and disassemble it.

If so, as was remarked, Prof. Gaddy advised using Behlens Clear Spray. But the frame must be completley disassembled to do this otherwise overspray can gunk up the innards.

I myself would do this if the gun was torn down for overhaul but to date have been to lazy or too much of a coward to do it just for this reason.

If the above applies to you I concur with Prof. Legg, thinned Tru-Oil brushed on will do nicely. The colors will be warmer due to the Tru-Oil's yellow cast, much like the difference between oil paintngs and acrylics.

Rob

Only .02 worth, but I have to agree with the Tru Oil method.

I'm curious as to why lacquer is used - it's the weakest of all the paints in terms of durability. We've all owned cars with lacquer paint, probably...a few years in the elements and it's time for a repaint.

Lacquer (specifically nitrocellulose lacquer, not the modern catalyzed concoctions) is often used because it is easy to apply, and more importantly, easy to renew. Lacquer does not need to be stripped or sanded to allow another coat of lacquer to adhere to it. Like shellac, each succeeding coat will soften and bond to the old finish. Lacquer can be removed, if desired, with a Q-tip and lacquer thinner. Urethane finishes are extremely hard and almost impossible to remove easily. Application of renewal coats would require roughing up the surface to achieve a mechanical bond (think sandpaper on your color cased frame edges), whereas lacquer will form a chemical bond as long as the old coating is clean. It's a good idea to clean up the old finish with lacquer thinner so that you don't build up too much film thickness. The clear coat should be microscopically thin. I prefer Tru-Oil for its ease of use.

To all good friends who responded to this question, Thank you and God Bless you all. I have been so busy with work that it was only this evening I had a chance to check my thread and what a surprise I got.

Again, thank you all. This place is a haven for good honest people.

Domenic