To determine whether or not to restore an old and used (but not abused) classic gun. This gun is on face, tight, choked right enough, fine bores and solid wood. But I'm really itching to restore it to it's former 'factory' appearance -plus- . Maybe upgraded wood and reCC, reblue and polish some metal scratches out. Can't shoot it worth a lick so maybe a higher comb/DAH and a little cast. Hey, a period pad would be nice huh? I've got a bunch of others I can keep original and what do I care what you guys buy from the wife once I'm pushing up daisys. Or not.
If your gut says do it then don't worry what anyone here thinks. I'm working on mine because I want what I want. Maybe when there are no good original sterlingworths left an original will be worth twice what they are worth now. Those who have them will owe those of us who upgrade a thank you for makeing theirs worth so much more.
Bill G.
I now own six Sterlingworths, all of which will be up-graded. Ken
It's made it this far without any 'glory'.
I'd find one I could shoot 'worth a lick' and then spend some money on it.
L.F.
CT,
If it flips your trigger, do what you like. You've been around this board long enough to make an educated decision on what type of work you should do on a gun. Take this one for example. I'm betting you're thinking of holding true to the original in most ways, but make it fit you and shoot well. I'm also guessing you'll make all the finishes like the original. I believe Oscar mentioned that the very early Sterlingworths were charcoal casehardened as opposed to the later Fox guns which got molten cyanide salt casehardened. Likely someone like Researcher can nail down whether your's was charcoal or cyanide hardened.
1911-1912 pin gun, charcoal colors. Been thinking about upgrading one of mine to look like a Parker AA. Should drive my Parker shooting buddies nuts to have their engraving on my FOX gun. Would violate every sense of edicate that they have.
Only question is how much do you want to sink into this project? You could get into the $3,000 range real fast if you did all that you listed. If you did some of the work you could cut this down by half easy. Period pads are over rated in my book. Go for a leather covered one. They look nicer and are better when done right.
Make a list of what you want to have done and think aobut it for one month. In the mean time get the best looking stock blank that you can find for the job. When you have the stock blank in hand it will give you all the inspiration that you need to start the job. No shortcuts, do it one slow step at a time and do it right. Too often I see great starts end up as petered out wantabes. You sound like you really want a first class gun so go for it. Damn pitty it is not a 20 though.
1. It must have 95%++ useful life left in the metal, ie. no gaps, rattlin, movement,....
2. Quality engraving is a must, no "stick-style" engraving!
3. Most important: IT MUST HAVE EXTRA WOOD TO SHAVE OFF IF PRN! Think custom fit here, like in those PB SO guns that have that stump you can have shaped to your dimensions.
Here is a perfect example of clay/pigeon buster:
http://www.collectorsfirearms.com/admin/product_details.php?itemID=8850 PS. One of a kind, or rare is preferred, I like to steal the show.
I'm reacting more to the fact that you've put forward a choice already and that is the old Sterlingworth you picture. Where you go with it depends on which way you want to go - - and this is often predicated on how much money you want to spend.
Taking a modest route, in round figures and assuming good barrels, figure $275 on rust blue and $175 for CC. Personally doing your barrel prep and polishing your receiver following annealing could tilt these prices in your favor. You would probably need to shop for these prices, but that's all part of the process - -( ask us for recommendations, etc.) Last, keep in mind, too, that I'm theorizing doing this work on a Sterlingworth which carries only modest border engraving. Depending on how extensive receiver polishing needs are, you might have to have the engraving sharpened up, along with the name. All these things cost more.
The wood part has always been the big bad bear for me. If you feel you could work with your existing wood, then removing oil stains, repairing cracks, adding a pad of choice and, as necessary and feasible, bending your buttstock for a better fit followed by stock refinishing might lead to a satisfactory result. If your checkering requires re-cutting, then wood related refurbishments will cost more. Assuming, though, that you can do some of this work and don't opt for a leather covered pad, then $400, not counting re-checkering costs, seems a working figure.
Bore and choke work, action repair, and all the other insideous little things that can pop up are all extra, too. (Jagermeister's input about starting with a gun in good condition makes sense here.) These things just have a way of coming to the surface when you're into the project. But in sum and to provoke discussion, lets say that a thousand bucks put out for competent work and parts should leave you with a very credible gun that will shoot where you point and be a pleasure to look at when the birds aren't flying.
If this approach is too modest, then I'd carefully consider Jon's ideas because he's been there.
I have two SWs one of which will accept both barrels. I am waiting to have it engreaved and will get it restocked to my odd dimensions as money will allow. I will open the chokes up on one set of barrells to 10 $ 25 or 5 & 15 and leave the others mod and full. It will reside in its case mostly and be brought out for late season doves to make me feel like a victorian gentelman.
Check out this bew'tiful restoration.
http://www.gunsamerica.com/guns/976772367.htm This master gunsmith must work really cheap ?
Yeah ----- here we go with the old propane torch "Again." Ken
Mr. Jon gets my vote re. what to do . I think you should rebuild this S/W up to what YOU want it to look like --- the heck with what others think. I could never afford the beautiful guns I saw so learned to do the work myself. You most certainly save a bunch od loot if you prep a gun yourself ! Definitely have the action & external screws annealed prior to polishing. A little lighjt work with a file before hand polishing with wet or dry paper will really go a long ways towards establishing good crisp edges/lines. I personally feel the S/W looks even better/cleaner with the wiggly border and name removed but thats only my opinion. I would be happy to talk to you and explain how I go at it step by step if you care to call . Ken 910-221-5288 EST
Thankyou to all of you respected gentlemen for your valued guidance. To be honest I've already had an late A grade choked from M/F to IC/M. Sure makes a dandy appearance on the skeet field and shoots respectably. But boy the guilt trip is tough to kick. Yes, this is the gun thats causing all this consternation on my part and yes my inclination is to keep it as close to original in appearance as possible. Cost isn't really part of the decision. What I can't do I can have done by close friends in the custom gun building business. Ken, perhaps Bill Simmens is a name you might recognize. Probably will do it. Thanks again all. Chuck T.
The American gun collector has made his bed, with the all original gun dancing in his head. I'll keep my Phila. Sterlingworth and AE in the shape they're in.
They are, after all, field grade guns - the very reason I bought them for in the first place.
They have a magic all their own.