I would like to try to re-cut the checkering (simple diamond pattern) on a stock I am refinishing. (I will try on a old stock first to find out if I have the aptitude for it) I am looking for guidance on what the best tool(s) for this would be. Should I use something like the:

1) Dembart handle and replaceable F1/C1 single line cutter heads.
2) Dembart handle and S1 replaceable cutter heads.
3) Dembart 60 or 90 degree fixed head tool. (I don't know how to sharpen)
4) Needle files.

Thanks in advance for the help.

I find that Brownell's bent checkering files do about 95% of the work for me. I reccomend you start with one in medimun cut.

bill

I like the adjustable Brownell handle with Dembart S1 head.Dembart handle will work.Bill's suggestion on bent needle file is good.I started with one and broke a little off the tip before using.Get several old checkered stocks to practice on.Take your time.You really need a checkering cradle which is easy to make. Bobby

Second the bent checkering file.

Thank you for the advice gentlemen. Another question. When is the best time in the refinishing process to re-cut the checkering? Is it just prior to the last few applications of Tru-oil? Should I apply one or two coats of oil on the checkering, let it cure and then re-cut or recut the stripped and cleaned checkering and then oil? Thanks again.

Checkering a new stock is done after finishing. Therefore, I suggest refinishing to perfection, making an effort to keep the finish out of the checkering...only because it will have to be cleaned out and filling the lines to heavily will only make it more difficult to follow them. I would finish into the border or maybe 1/8" into the pattern itself, if it's borderless.

After recutting, the wood will be raw and completely open-pored. Just like the initial finishing of bare wood on a new stock, I like to saturate the checkering with my finish cut 50% with mineral spirits for maximum penetration and sealing with minimal build-up. I apply 2-3 coats, virtually never more than 4. My goal is to build the slightest sheen in the checkering (which tells me it's sealed) without build-up. It shouldn't be a lot shinier than the surrounding wood, nor do I like the light, dry look that tells me it was freshly done and which suggests it wasn't properly sealed. If you can drop a single drop of water in the checkering and leave a spot, it's not sealed, meaning gun and skin oil can penetrate the wood.

I've been cleaning out and re-pointing checkering on doubles for many years with a tool Brownell's sells called a riffler. If the checkering is too far gone and worn to the point you cannot follow the lines, it won't work, and it's best to send it to a professional for re-cutting. Otherwise, it works great.

I learned a long time ago the secret to re-pointing a pattern with a riffler is to go slow, use plenty of lighting, and use a set of strong reading glasses. I also dip the tool in lacquer thinner after each pass, and use a toothbrush to knock away the crud.

I always do this BEFORE I refinish the wood. I mask off the pattern and when I'm done with the wood, I put stain/finish mix in the checkering to match and seal. Probably have done close to 100 stocks this way over the years.
JR

I do pretty much as Mike Campbell does it. Sanding during the refinish can slide over into the checkering w/o much of a concern,,you're going to re-cut it anyway. No need to over do it though.

Recutting I generally use a carbide single line tool for the first pass. I don't know if you can even find them anymore, but they are a real work and money saver if you do a lot of restoration work.

Re-cutting old work eats up regular tools very quickly as the dirt&grit in the old checkering grinds away the sharp edges of the tiny tools.
A few can be resharpened at least a time or two, but most like the file style are toast. I've got a carbide that's been working steady for 25yrs and just showing some dullness now. It still is my first choice to re-trace old work.

I then go over the work with a regular spacer to even things up and deepen it. This second step really makes the checkering look a lot nicer when the spacer is used.
Some old work w/odd spacing resists it but there are single line tools around w/an adj spacing bar too.

It all depends on how involved you want to get in the work and how many jobs you'll be doing.

I have to work w/magnification. But I'd suggest it for anyone.

I usually brush in a single coat of thinned finish. Then stain the checkering at that point if I need to,,and I usually do as I stain most all of the wood I work with. Some do,,some don't.
But if you stain the raw checkering, it'll drink up the stain at a rate quicker than you might expect and become a couple shades darker than you wanted. A light finish coat first,,or even two, will prevent that.

(Tooth)Brush just a wisp of black chalk dust or other black powdered substance into the checkering when it's just about dryed. I'm still using up a jar of old copier toner. Works fine.
It'll put that older, used and handled look into the checkering for you,,if that's what you're after.

There's no one correct way to do any of this stuff. It's what ends up working best for you. Try a few different things suggested by others or things you come up with on your own.
The final results will tell you when you've found the 'right' way.

Any checkering work before finish makes no sense to me, personally. Why would anyone want to mess around with masking off anything.

I suppose it's just paying attention to detail, Brian. I do all of my heavy sanding BEFORE I re-point the checkering. My method of applying finish in very thin coats does not do well with unmasked checkering. Also, I don't want anything more in the checkering after I've already cleaned it out with lacquer thinner and a toothbrush.
JR

Good advice above, esp. carbide cutter, riffler, magnification, and cradle. One more point. Be sure to side light the checkering so as to high light the lines with shadow. Front lighting makes the checkered field "flat" and very hard to see. Confuzus say, "Thou canst not checker what thou canst see." ;-)

DDA

Thanks to all. The information provided is fantastic. Can anyone provide details on a good single line carbide cutter to purchase. I have ordered needle files and a riffler file. I am still looking for plans for a cradle to build. Thanks again for the help..

These use to be called Dorian, but have been produced by Ullmans. Here you are:

http://ullmanprecisionproducts.com/power-checkering-tools/

Brownells use to sell checkering decals and there was plans to build a checkering cradle that came with decals.I cannot remember the maker.Call Brownells and ask about decals and plans. Bobby

I built my first checkering cradle out of Oak using the one from this website as a reference.

http://rickaverill.com/projects-past-and-present/checkering-cradle/

I currently use something else that built with a full swiveling ball base.

I built a checkering cradle 40 years ago. For the next 39 years I used a towel over a bag of #9 shot. I never found another use for #9 shot.

I have a chxering cradle packed away somewhere too. I built it maybe 30+yrs ago. Used it a few times.
But found that simply mounting the wood back onto the metal or a simple piece of 2x2 and holding onto that metal or 2x2 in the engraving vise was a lot more convenient. Plus I didn't have to stand while checkering or carving.
Whatever works for you..

>>Wiscborn,,,Thanks for posting that link to Ullmans.

Thanks again for all of the help. Next up will be some practicing to find out if I have the aptitude for it. Thanks again, Patrick.

NEVER use anything but a 60deg cutter whether it is a file or cutting head.

JMO of course but you'll regret the 90deg every time you look at what you've done

have another day

Dr.WtS